CLARE_LIV_2

She may be better known for her acting roles and for her face and grace fronting the campaigns of Givenchy make-up and fragrance cruelly replaced by Amanda Seyfried in 2013. But Liv didn’t let that get her down. Instead, she’s worked closely with the brand that is the epitome of British biker chic, Belstaff, working hand-in-hand with Belstaff’s creative director, Delphine Ninous, a woman who knows how to turn around a brand and build on subtle changes to heritage for that nuance of femininity, even in leather.

INSTA-LIV-(28)

Ninous and Tyler, acting as ambassador and creative contributor, dove through the brand’s archives to curate a collection that is independent in spirit and moulds to the character of the wearer.

Says Tyler, “I’d always wanted to create a few timeless classics. Things I have in my closet but wished I designed myself. I sought to express strength through the outerwear and leather pieces alongside a more feminine sensual side through the softer materials like silk, and via the more fitted silhouettes of my styles. It’s a celebration of the feminine and masculine rolled into one.”

BELSTAFF_SHOT_04_082 1BELSTAFF_SHOT_01_058

A fine leather jacket with a removable collar and a quilted interior is contrasted with blush pussy-bow blouses and fitted under-the-knee riding boots. A new, more fitted take on the Milford (the coat Belstaff originally created for Benedict Cumberbatch’s Sherlock) has been created in three fabrications, while two nylon parkas come with removable shearling gilets. New technical fabrications for Belstaff include a protective coated treatment and water-repellent cotton and a lightweight nylon.

BELSTAFF_SHOT_08_155BELSTAFF_SHOT_12_001BELSTAFF_SHOT_11_005

Delphine Ninous, Belstaff Collection Creative Director, says: “Working with Liv has not only been fun, but also invigorating. It enabled us to interpret our design point of view and archive through her lens. Her style is unique and personal, and her approach to designing is refreshing as it is unrestricted by previous teachings. Our capsule with Liv is timeless, effortlessly elegant and feminine whilst also embodying the Belstaff spirit of functionality and style”.

BELSTAFF_SHOT_09_061

Together, Delphine and Liv introduce 13 key pieces that blend easily into most women’s wardrobes.

The capsule was shot on up and coming model Greta Varlese in Brooklyn’s Red Hook Docks, with eight-month-pregnant Tyler art directing. She gave birth to Lula Rose, her first daughter, just under a month ago.

The 13 style capsule is available now from Belstaff stores, select department stores and independents and on Belstaff.com. Her second capsule with Belstaff will follow for Spring ‘17.

Earlier this year, Liv worked on a campaign film with Belstaff, Falling Up (www.belstaff.com/falling-up/)  in which she retraced the footsteps of 1920s aviator Amelia Earhart, one of the first women Belstaff dressed. In addition to starring in the film, she reprised her role as Executive Producer on the project, following her same role on Outlaws for Belstaff starring David Beckham last year.

{ 0 comments }

BOY CHANEL

Being off the boil for a while re. the ol’ perfume reviewing malarkey, it took a brave scent and a braver perfumer to get my juices flowing again. Before  this starts becoming far too Frankie Howard* by far (*Millennials, ask your parents), this is about Chanel after all. And such a classy, demure and newly-old feeling perfume release that perfectly manages to straddle the essence of Mlle Chanel and her wilful difference with the appeal of a contemporary vibe that’s going to woo a global market.

What’s so appealing is the fact that perfumer, Olivier Polge, takes a different route to greatness by eschewing the normcore. Let’s face it, to be crude, Chanel could take the easy route, developing easy-appeal, sweet orientals and aldehydes (obviously in keeping with the brand name) that would rack up millions of dollars of sales due to the Chanel name.

What’s way more than impressive is that Polge chooses to eek out a finesse that’s rare, especially with a brand as monumental and grandiose as Chanel, and make the subtlety of the scent ‘a thing’.

I wrote about Polge’s taste and refinement in his first release for the label and Les Exclusifs, Misia, a beautiful, powdery soft chypre. In Boy, named after Boy Capel, Coco Chanel’s great love of her life, tragically killed in a car accident at 38, we see a fragrance that straddles genders and types. Boy is no hard-hitting, masculine baiting essence. This is a nod to Chanel’s classic 1970s imagery of the blonde in the tweed suit heading into the gentleman’s club and letting down her hair. This is the perfume of choice for the palazzo pant wearing, boyfriend shirt donning woman who likes to mix it up.

BOY CHANEL 200ml

Les Exclusifs de Chanel Boy Chanel is too subtle and discreetly sensual to be gender-bending and too unique to be typecast. A sexy, powdery hit that breathes of softness, sand and sunlight, as a fougere it’s quite, quite different. The juicy sharp opening whiff of lemon and grapefruit seems to merge with a green tinge of rose geranium. A burst of freshness that soon opens to a creamy, warm soft sandalwood and vanilla with heliotrope, coumarin and musk thrown in, to boot. Boy manages to balance freshness with warmth, masculine with feminine, sexiness with androgyny. A perfume essay in balance and restraint that’s the very essence and class of Chanel. It’s already on my ‘go-to’ perfumes roster as an easy, distinctive wear.

I’ve no doubt Mlle Chanel would be mad about the Boy. Legions of her followers will be, too.

Les Exclusifs de Chanel Boy Chanel is available from Chanel boutiques and counters in House of Fraser Glasgow & Bluewater, Selfridges and Chanel Covent Garden & Burlington Arcade. Prices are £130 (75ml) and £230 (200ml)

{ 0 comments }

Mix-LGBT-retouched

Way back in the mists of time, sometime in the mid-Nineties, someone coined the term “The Pink Pound” to describe the purchasing power of the UK’s gay community. As brands cynically tried to plunder this estimated £6bn market, we got wise – some wondered whether the tsunami of gay financial products, professional services firms, “gay vague” advertising and blatantly homoerotic fashion campaigns were holding back equality, whilst most demanded more integrity, or at least an authentic synergy with the community. It’s also worth mentioning that, during this time, lesbians were mostly ignored, unless they were of the lusty, lipstick, photogenic variety, and Trans people didn’t actually exist in the minds of media agencies, unless it was as the butt of a joke.

Fast-forward twenty years and the landscape may have shifted somewhat, especially in terms of equality and gender politics. Many global brands now accept that equality is more about championing diversity and celebrating difference than token gestures, or a one-size-fits-all approach.

pride_landing_image_3

If nothing came between Brooke Shields and her Calvin Klein jeans, then even less comes between gay men and their Levi’s. Since the Fifties, Levi 501’s have remained the foundation of every queen-of-a-certain-age’s butch drag, shrunk-to-fit with their secret button-fly code. It’s no surprise then that Levi Strauss is a long-time supporter of LGBT equality, and San Francisco’s Harvey Milk Foundation. For this year’s Pride season, Levi’s have released a capsule gender-neutral range of T-shirts, cut-off denim shorts and a trucker jacket, featuring Rainbow Flag embroidery and Milk’s famous “We will never be silent” quote. With prices from £15, the Levi’s x Harvey Milk Foundation Pride Collection is available from Levi’s stores and online.

conversepride

Some Pride cash-ins are less obvious. Take the Adidas Originals Pride Pack, which splashes rainbow colours across its sportswear and the Superstar and Stan Smith shoes. Okay, so on one side you have Jeremy Scott’s bondage harness track jacket, but at the same time the Adidas brand has greater associations with hip-hop and serious sports events, such as Team GB’s Olympics kit. A portion of the cost goes to charity, so there’s that, but we’re not in love with the product or the rationale.

Nike-owned Converse has a slightly more successful range, although the woven Chuck’s probably aren’t suitable for our notoriously inclement “British Summertime” (pictured above).

The only thing we possibly love more than dressing up for Pride parades is dressing up and getting drunk at Pride parades, so thank Kylie that Absolut is on hand with some limited edition bottles, all customised by the crème-de-la-crème of London’s queer counter-culture, including HRH Princess Julia, designer Henry Holland, and knitwear demigods Sibling. Scarper over to auction site Givergy, where these bottles are being sold off in support of LGBT charity Stonewall. Don’t worry if you can’t afford one of these unique objets, Absolut will also be donating a percentage of sales from bottles during Pride in London this weekend, 25th-26th June 2016.

So, get drinking, but please do so responsibly – and if you can’t drink responsibly remember to stay safe!

Article by Lee Clatworthy (@bombfashion) for katiechutzpah.com

{ 0 comments }

gucci0071.jpg

It takes a while to take in and deconstruct a Gucci show by Alessandro Michele. And by a while, I mean a LONG while. I think I need a lie down after Gucci Resort ‘17. And that’s before I even mention the ‘Scarborough Fair’ choral soundtrack.

gucci0078.jpggucci0092.jpggucci0073.jpg

Rather than attending the show (yup, got it, thanks…what’s the next show?) or flicking through the first reams of catwalk images (yup, got it, this is what’s new, where the designer’s going etc), my immediate response (usually) to Michele’s work is, “What tha’ holy feck is this? To, “Oh, that’s really quite nice.” And, “That would really work on a young Japanese girl. But really? On a middle-aged, elegant woman who has £££s to play with?” To finally, “Now he’s just taking the p.”

gucci0009gucci0037

Michele, however, can do no wrong in Planet Fashion as he does, truly, push boundaries and inject newness. It’s fodder for stylists and pages and pages of editorial story inspiration.

gucci0015gucci0010

If anything, as I’ve mused before, it’ll keep clever Ebayers busy, scouring vintage (much like Michele has), replicating the looks or those buying into the heaving branded accessories line. ALL of which was shown, neigh, heaped to the gunnels in multiples, on the catwalk at Westminster Abbey in today’s Resort ‘17 show. Well, as Brit doyenne Patsy Stone is wont to say, “You can never have enough hats, gloves shoes.”

gucci0007gucci0059

On a serious note, the setting and the feel may have been influenced by the British but rather than ‘English Eccentric’ with a mix of country and city kudos, the collection seemed far more ‘foreign’ with its feigned British folly. Brexit voters will be waving their little Englander fists and crying, ‘”See what happens when they steal our culture!”. Less Florence Welch and more Parisienne stylist, Catherine Baba, as muse.

gucci0055

The collection trooped out the usual maximalism that Michele is known for. I was surprised there was no militaristic trooping of the colours slant, though there were plenty references to Her Majesty in her 90th year with headscarves, kilts and handbags clutched on the arm. Then there were Eton’esque boaters and Gucci rain hoods, as well as 1960s Carnaby street hippie tinges. Painting by numbers Britishness blurred the more beautiful pieces such as the frou-frou candy pink evening dress or the see-through gossamer black frill cocktail dress. As I’ve mentioned, it takes a while to sink in and sift out the outstandingly good from the simply playing-to-the-masses. It leaves one with a taste for a clean sorbet plainness to cleanse the palette and digest.

gucci0057gucci0033

The gender blurring worked to great effect with Gucci Menswear being the strongest in terms of hip, casual, street-meets-nightclub wear – studded leathers, tie-dyed tight jeans, hoodies, branded sweats, preppie blazers. Women could work this easily and sexily. And I guess that’s Alessandro Michele’s point. Blurring the distinction between men’s and women’s collections is the true message. One that he’s excelled in, in fact. As an opener to next week’s LCM shows, this was setting the bar high.

Catwalk photos kindly supplied from WWD (Please click on the link to see more).

{ 0 comments }

nikelab-collection (3)

Wondering why everyone seems to be on their way to an Ashtanga Yoga-themed cocktail party these days? That’ll be the rising influence of ‘Athleisure’, a more casual extension of the Sports Luxe trend pushed by designers like Alexander Wang and Christopher Shannon.

As aspirational as green juice and Pret protein pots, Athleisure can simply be defined as sportswear too expensive to actually sweat in. More and more of us are buying into Athleisure as a lifestyle, one that says “I care about my body, and I’m not going to iron a shirt every morning when I wake up because I’m way too busy”. Athleisure wearers might list Instagram Influencer, Digital Prophet or Global R&B Superstar as their profession. Damn right, it’s better than yours.

olivier-rousteing-kicking-soccer-ball-nikelab

Adidas stole an early lead on its competitors, following the Y3 partnership with Yohji Yamamoto, and collections designed by Jeremy Scott, Stella McCartney and Mary Katrantzou, but now Nike is fighting back. Following a breathlessly lauded hook-up with Givenchy creative director Riccardo Tisci, Nike is now unleashing its most eagerly awaited collaboration to date. Allow me to present ‘Football Nouveau’ by NikeLab x Olivier Rousteing. Yes, him from Balmain.

NikeLab_x_OR_8_native_1600

Now suspend your disbelief if you will, and try and imagine that the great love of the titular Parisian’s life is not self-promotion, or strapping Kim Kardashian into yards of cantilevered couture, but football, which forms the basis of this capsule collection of gold, as in medals, and black – because what else are you going to wear to a yoga-themed shindig?

nikelabor

There’s all the usual form, function and technical performance palaver you’d expect from a brand like Nike, but most of you will be thinking how this’ll look trotting up to the goji berries in Whole Foods. A reimagining of the iconic N98 jacket is billed as “versatile enough to be worn either as a dress or a jacket”, but only if you have spectacular legs or a total lack of shame.

00-holding-nike-x-olivier-rousteing

Of course Rousteing is front and centre of the associated campaign, flanked by actual real sportspeople, Blaise Matuidi, Cristiano Ronaldo and Laure Boulleau, adding to the authenticity of an Athleisure collection more suited to football than marketing pitches. As with Balmain’s collaboration with H&M, don’t expect it to be around long. Like football, aspiration is a national pastime.

Written by Lee Clatworthy (@bombfashion) for www.katiechutzpah.com

{ 0 comments }

dior_cruise_09

Design duo Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux at Dior seem to be doing a Vetements at Dior while hot-sitting at the helm. Which is to say, coming out with some new and much needed trend and proportion direction, as well as causing a degree of confusion.

dior_cruise_12dior_cruise_21dior_cruise_27dior_cruise_10

Layering it on, sometimes too much, gave the collection an over-styled vibe when it’s aiming for its co-joined, hipper-than-though-twin description, directional. It’s always tough when the rules of a design house alter. Meier and Ruffieux (who both worked under Raf Simons) seem to be finding their Dior feet while eager to make their mark. Less elegant satin pointed stiletto and more heavy patent platform ankle boot. One-upmanship styling in the haute house yelled a ‘we-can-do-it-too’ sign to Demna Gvasalia at Balenciaga by way of Vetements.

dior_cruise_30dior_cruise_31dior_cruise_19dior_cruise_36

Puffed sleeves and prints, lots of layering and juxtaposed fabric pairing, skirts over trousers, ribbon-like ties as detailing and chunky heels, say to the buyers, ‘please deconstruct this collection before placing an order’. Much better were the dresses and the tailored jackets, even if trying to be a bit too hard ultra-contemporary. Still, no one can say this design team haven’t made their mark even if they may soon be replaced by a more nameworthy creative director.

{ 0 comments }

Gucci Menswear Cruise 2017

by Katie on May 22, 2016

Gucci-6-666x999

I couldn’t let Alessandro Michele’s latest menswear outing pass without comment. Having been quite vocal about Gucci’s new direction, if you can call Michele’s particular brand of faux vintage “new”, I’ve had to eat my words. Not much, a bite-size portion of attrition.

Gucci-5-666x999

Apparently inspired by the English eccentricity, and Gucci’s forthcoming Cruise show in London’s Westminster Abbey, the collection runs the gamut from Brideshead toffs to Brighton mods, via the sartorial snarl of punk bleachers and bovver boots. I guess that Vivienne Westwood is the archetypal shorthand for English Eccentric these days.

Gucci-9-666x999

At first glance, this collection seems a lot more “street”. Not the contrived “street style” that’s informed Michele’s everything-with-a-hat-and-a-bag dressing, but actual looks that me and my friends might wear. Recognisable Michele-isms, like the now ubiquitous souvenir jacket and those silly fur slippers, make another appearance, as do those louche, loose silk shirts, but Gucci’s creative director would be a poor businessman if he ignored these Instagram-baiting items. Still, sweatshirts and hoodies seem fresh for a designer who swans around a Roman palace looking like Charles Manson let loose in a jumble sale.

Gucci-4-666x999

Of course, there’s far too much of everything, although Gucci isn’t in the same position as Burberry, which has announced its intention to cut back product lines, and some of the suiting harks back to Frida Giannini’s aimless pilotage. Unsurprising considering Michele was her head of accessories. As for said bags, expect to see everyone who thinks they’re anyone carrying one next summer, such is their white-hot covetability.

01-gucci-menswear-cruise-2017

Beyond the excess, there’s still no identifiable Michele signatures (you would think that Givenchy and Kenzo had already rinsed military stars and big cats to death by now), but this collection feels like a step in the right direction for a brand overwhelmed by hype at present.

Reviewed by Lee Clatworthy (@bombfashion) exclusively for katiechutzpah.com. Images courtesy of Vogue Runway.

{ 0 comments }

Valentina Myrrh Assoluto by Valentino

by Katie on May 22, 2016

valmyrrh2

Perfumer Olivier Cresp’s collaboration with Hamid Merati-Kasha has knocked it out the ballpark with another outstandingly beautiful release as part of the Valentina by Valentino range of fragrances. Usually flankers become run-of-the-mill with little other than tweaked differences (apart from the marketing ploy to capture already ‘sold’ consumers and spike sales) but Valentina’s ranges have gone beyond the norm with distinct, heart-capturing releases such as Valentina Oud Assoluto, Rosa Assoluto in 2013 and Valentina Poudre earlier this year. Adding to the stable, Cresp & Merati-Kasha have concocted Valentino Myrrh Assoluto with and upgrade in ingredients, mood and look.

One of the most notably feminine and gorgeous bottles on the market goes from the dusky pale pink to a beautiful rich, classy taupe. (I’m taking ideas for new room decor). The curled, matte, Valentino couture rose is still there on a glossy, ceramic round flacon with the ‘Valentino’ etched in gold on the spray attachment.

From first spray the high, heady notes of myrrh sucker punch the senses into submission. This is a classy feminine bolt of good taste sublimely blended with not a hint of rawness. Sheer unadulterated sophistication. Luxury and opulence meet in the largesse of jasmine, ylang, ylang and myrrh with the softness of vanilla and musk but with an added bolt of fine leather, the latter coming across more like the finest, soft taupe suede…reminding one of the type of luxurious sofas in expensive, contemporary boutique hotels. This little jolt of leather in the base combined with the superior heart of myrrh is what raises this fragrance from simply beautiful to divinely moreish and magnetic. It adds the teeniest confrontational juxtaposition and rounds its personality immeasurably because of it. My only concern is that it may be quickly bought up or limited in its supply. Perfume lovers take note. This is one to seek out and stash.

Valentina Myrrh Assoluto by Valentino is available exclusively in Harrods from 11th July 2016 and then available nationwide from 1st October 2016. 80ml EDP is priced £93.

{ 0 comments }

CK-One-Summer16-100ml-Packshot-Straight.png

CK One owns Summer. Its blast of aquatic fruity or floral freshness, depending on the latest limited edition flanker is oft a welcome antithesis to the overt bergamots or rose layers that remain, quite rightly, ever popular when it gets mid way through the year.

Since the mid 1990s, CK One’s distinct appeal was its amorphous quality to blurry gender and make everything smell of sinewy youth and promise. To this day, CK One’s appeal is ever clear whether to the first early (now ageing) adopters to the burgeoning generation X(Factor) of today.

This summer’s release is a green haven of lushness, spilling forth the crunch and juiciness of green apples, zingy lime mojitos and ginger with its traditional aquatic squelchiness of Summer. Throw in a big floral note from Tahitian gardenia and fruity guava and layer on cedarwood, tree moss and sweet coconut milk for the dry down and you have an upbeat tropical paradise in a bottle.

CK One Summer’s appeal will be that grab and go factor whether it’s a holiday purchase, for post gym use or to chase away the big city blues when it’s hot & sticky. Its vibe is vivacious.

CK ONe Summer EDT spray (100ml) is priced £33 and is available from dept stores nationwide.

{ 0 comments }

NEW Acqua di Parma Colonia Sandalo & Pack (Mood)

He bounded into my flat like an over excitable red setter, darting around me as usual, all beard whiskers and warmth with embraces, exclamations and gossip to relay.

Clunking around the various bottles that lay forlornly on my kitchen table awaiting review, he sniffed and smelled like his canine spirit animal. He settled on one in particular. “Oh, what’s this?….I like this a LOT.’  “It’s very expensive and exclusive,” I replied. “How exclusive?” he bit back. “£176 worth of Harrods exclusive.” He sprayed another liberal amount for good measure with this latest information. “This smells of you. It’s exactly the type of thing I associate with you.” I probed him a bit more. “What do you mean exactly?” “Oh you know. It’s very sexy. Like a rich, sophisticated hippie.” And there he had it, my friends. Ending my month long writer’s block and self imposed fugue. In a few words, he had Acqua di Parma’s Colonia Sandalo (if not me, in actuality) summed up. And while I could just leave it at that, I’ll delve deeper.

NEW Acqua di Parma Colonia Sandalo & Pack

Acqua di Parma’s Colonia Sandalo comes on strong with its opening blast of deep warmth and spice merged with its top notes of bergamot, lemon, orange and petigrain. Like a latter-day Italo Barry White meets Tony Manero. Deeply sexy with its baritone and promise of jutting hips, Sandalo is the grown up, international silver fox version of both in a Cerruti suit, with the hint of a Kabbalah bracelet or beaded Goa remnant hidden under impeccable sleeves. Mediterranean via the Maldives.

The creamy intoxicating warmth of good quality Indian sandalwood elegantly blended with a soupcon on cardamom and lavender is enthralling. A rich splurge of refined amber and tonka bean only adds to its alluring raffishness. The longer it’s worn, the deeper the dilemma. Is this the ideal for a discreet man’s man or a man’s woman, who’s contradictory hands-off sensuality is all the more attractive for it? Either way, Acqua di Parma have once more captured the imagination with this Harrods exclusive that brandishes the Harrods ‘H’ on its trademark Deco style cap. A class act as ever.

Acqua di Parma’s Colonia Sandalo concentree is created exclusively for Harrods priced £176 for 100ml EDC.

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...

{ 0 comments }