Milan A/W ‘10. Prada, Gucci & Dolce go back to the ‘90’s – Honestly! It’s a Good Thing.

by Katie on February 28, 2010

As the fash pack moved to Milan, it seems they were in for a stellar season of luxe, lush, wearable, ‘make an entrance’ clothing not seen for years. Hankering after better times when economies were flush and a ‘recessionista’ was unheard of, the stalwarts of Milan Fashion Week (and who better to inspire the UK high street) turned out ‘best of’ collections that have droves of die hard fashion luminaries, already lining up for pre-orders.

At Prada, Miuccia continued to marry her vision of fashion & art, sending out reams of today’s supermodels including Lara Stone Doutzen Kroes and Catherine McNeil to a soundtrack of Beatnik jazz in a cavernous, intimidating set designed by architect, Rem Koolhaas. Ms Prada stated she was ‘revising’ things she did in the ‘90’s. But, oh how we loved it. Her stereotype uptight yet sexy early 1960’s secretary who’s wondered into a jazz club by default, this girl’s wardrobe would have Mad Men salivating – Strictly tailored A line dresses with bullet bra form and petticoat frills worn with knee socks. Ruffled bosom fit and flare dresses competed with double face cashmere wiggle dresses for attention while loud, dull plaid two piece suits epitomised covered up sexiness and knits were juxtopositioned with leather look cire. And all worn with chic beehives. Fabulous.

Back at Gucci, Frida Giannini’s super sexy collection even managed to up the ante on Prada. Delving the house classics from the ‘70’s and ‘90’s, the vision was of a modern day, kick ass ‘Charlie’ (perfume) girl and oh so glam. The trouser took centre stage for day or evening – the perfect cut and length, falling to just over the shoe, and when paired with satin, feathers, tulle and lace and heaps of fox fur – Wow! Fierce said the low slung trouser worn with beautiful silver fox fur, fierce said the body con sheath dresses, slit to tease at flesh and double fierce said the chocolate ostrich feather jacket that shimmied with every move, paired with sequin vest and satin chocolate pants. Make no mistake, molto sexy Gucci’s back with a vengeance.

The boys at Dolce & Gabbana teased with a black lace invitation, a taste of illicit things to come. Focused on ‘sartorialita’ ie tailoring Italian style, attention to detail in the infinite was paid to reams of impeccably tailored and severely lapel jackets worn with big knickers (not in the Bridget Jones manner) and lace or chiffon slips. Structured corset shapes that we know and love made their return, some bedecked with gold coins and, of course, the right-side-of- taste leopard and lace dresses, as delicate as they were raunchy. Breathtaking big florals worn with Sicilian lace were heart stopping. The classics from Dolce’s divine heritage proved a winner. This is one sexy Sicilian mama – can we carry this off in London? Yes please.

To fall back on reworked classics from happier economic days of yore in an attempt to regain custom and house dominance in these uncertain times sounds like a winner.

As Ray Charles said, let the good times roll, baby.
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