Maria Grachvogel shows London how to do Luxe for A/W 2011

by Katie on February 19, 2011

It was linear luxe agogo at Maria Grachvogel and the first hint of promise that London can actually produce sleek designers worthy of the LVMH masterclass.  This show rippled with sheer elegance and raised the bar for all those designers wishing to compete for Ms Middleton’s affections.

Maria Grachvogel produced her trademark abstract print silks and swathes of georgette, cashmere, lace and featherlight wool in long, fluid lines which flowed as effortlessly and flawlessly as the long limbs of the models.  Items named as Raven, Heron, Wallace, Gryphon, Mitford and Simpson harked back to the elegance of habitues of The Savoy (where the show was held) and also gave a nod to the Fairy Tale influence of the Brothers Grimm, an inspiration for the collection.

Ethereal, earthy and abstract, the collection referenced both the natural and fantastical through Artwok prints evoking dark fairy tales, bones and enchanted forests in steel and subtle jewel shades of amethyst and sapphire.  Signature Grachvogel items such as the cleverly cut pants, drape dreses and catsuits were present alongside statement pieces such as a full length coat with an oversized collar with a luxe shearling trim. 

Flowing skirts were raised at the front and flowed long at the back in an arch.  Back details on dresses fell in waterfall ruffles.  Bags and shoes (by Gina) were luxury personified in matte snakeskin.  Flashes of orange raised the temperature while flirty feather trim shoulders and cuffs (a feature of LFW so far with horse hair shoulder trims also at Felder Felder) appeared on dresses.  These were outfits for modern debs with black lipstick and even blacker hearts.

Highlighting this ethereal yet architectured collection was an exclusive capsule jewellery from Erickson Beamon for Maria Grachvogel:  cocktail earrings, necklaces, collars, cuffs and Deco cuff links in perspex stone and opaque grey crystal were present as were oversized sculptural pieces in monochrome.
What do you think of Maria Grachvogel’s collection?  Let me know in the comment box below.  Thank you.
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