Nicole Farhi – Sharp and Beautifully Severe

by Katie on February 22, 2011

Sharp and razor sharp was the message at Nicole Farhi for A/W ’11 as was the flirtation with menswear proportions.

In this season’s vein, Ms Farhi has sharpened her elbows, slicked back the models hair to severe ponytails and sent out a seasoned collection of severely refined glamour for the Nicole Farhi fans and wannabees.

This was not a collection for those hell bent on gimmicks.  Instead, the elegance, architectural tailoring and innovative technichs in fabrication stood out. Graphic and pointed, contrasting masculine silhouettes met voluminous shapes.

Proportions were extreme and architectural; mannish trousers with cinched high cummerbunds, structured A-Line skirts that stood away from the body and wide kimono sleeves (sometimes with beautiful slashes) on coats and dresses.

Flashes of red (this season’s favoured shade) came by way of the sequin skirts worn with sleeveless belted wool knit tops.  A large lapeled double breasted jacket was worn with panache and a straight trouser, while double breasted coats had funnel neck sleeves and Nicole’s traditional white vision came by way of the beautiful flared pants and detailed cream sweater.

Sheepskin wrap coats were included as was the ode to black:  gorgeous strict black separates strode the catwalk all with gold burnished jewellery and attitude.

For the evening, column dresses were crafted from chain mail yarns, layered over crinkle bias-cut lame.  Billowing high-waist pleated skirts flashed in crimson and midnight and added a dramatic end to the events.

Ms Farhi’s collection managed to incorporate the elegance of her tailoring and subtleness to please her current client base while pandering to a new disciplined and dominatrix led audience.
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