Post Punk Power Vixens at Felder & Felder and Jean-Pierre Braganza

by Katie on February 23, 2011

There’s a storm brewing out there.  There was something definitely in the air at London Fashion Week.  So many designers seemed to opt for a darker, grim meets glam punk, post bank boom and bust vision of fashion that seemed to hark back to early 1980’s turbulence and a set of barely contained hackles rising.  The collective fashion voice appeared to say “Girls, we’re in recession.  Let’s get tough and serious or at least kick some metaphorical ass.”  London calling loud and clear.

Felder and Felder have created quite a niche area of idiosyncratic style.  Their West London, Rock Chic, Wannabee Groupie look is just hard edged enough to be enigmatic but beautiful and striking enough to be tempting.  Annette and Dani Felder showed a strong collection that further emphasised the strength of this burgeoning label and will hook in more admirers. 

Expanding their colour palette to include dark hues of violet, cobalt, cream and petrol, the sisters have yet managed to keep the core of the collection true to its hard edged, street wise roots.  It’s just that lines have sometimes softened with billowing shifts of graphic printed silk georgette worn with ‘Shape Sensation’ leather bras or bustiers (a collaboration with Triumph), fluid silks and jerseys and sequin printed, burnt ice flower motifs that added feminine warmth and delicacy.

Jackets and dresses were trimmed with shaggy goat hair in hues of teal, navy and black that managed to rock the party.  Key shapes included the strong tailored dress, the short nip and flare, hip skimming dresses, the uptown biker style jacket and a floor length gown with typical Felder and Felder studded straps.

Felder girls’ energy is infectious and their continued collaboration and friendship with West London DJ, Arthur Baker, keeps these girls firmly grounded in their Kat Maconie heels in Motown, Disco and Soul.  The Felder and Felder girl knows how to party.  This season she’ll rock the chic.

Over at Jean-Pierre Braganza, his vision of sharp shouldered leather and luxe wasn’t so ‘new new’ but certainly ticked the right boxes.  He saw his woman as a leader and a warrior and his story was steeped in science fiction but his his high pony tailed, power vixen needed clothes for this Brave New World.  Would they deliver?

Braganza’s strength were his digital prints, his masterful tailoring (always sublime) and his contrast fabrics such as wool and leather.  His militaristic tailoring was cut severely with asymmetric hems and billowing sleeves.  Flashes of fur hinted that Braganza’s authoritarian liked her comfort while flashes of leather glinted at her power.  She saw red.  Pillar box to be precise.  And often teamed it with striped wool woven into see through, sheer silk tops or  simply layered it; red on red on red.
Motorcycle details and padding prevailed on jackets but it was Braganza’s deft use of complex panelling and body sculpting that gave this show an edge.  More power to Braganza’s woman.
If you’d like to comment on the shows at London Fashion Week, please use the comment box below.  Thank you.
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