New Andrea Maack Parfums straddle Art and Fragrance

by Katie on April 11, 2011

Straddling the joint arenas of fragrance and art is Andrea Maack Parfums, a Reykjavik based fragrance house founded in 2009 by visual artist, Andrea Maack who, in collaboration with Perfumery apf aromes and parfums, has developed three very distinct fragrances for her art installations.

Rather than triggering visually potent memories, Maack’s unique scents have been formulated to signify the artist’s intricate pencil drawings.  Says Maack, “The drawings, sculpture and scents hold hands. Everything from the perfumes to the bottles and custom-made pouches are inspired by my artwork.  And the perfumes have gone on to inspire the installations that have become a crucial part of my practice.  The perfumes tie all the elements of my art making together, creating one cohesive work and exhibition.”  So a synergistic approach is applied and fragrance and art are joined in unison.

My initial reaction on presentation was to typecast this set of fragrances in the same vein as Maison Martin Margiela’s recently released ‘Untitled’ which bore the same tactics and approach, devoid of gimmicks (a gimmick in itself) and anti-marketing of its white clean, fresh fragrance with a modern, steely, green tint.  Similarly, presented and feeling very much part of this new breed of cool, white, water fragrances with an urban twist is “Juliette Has a Gun’s” myriad fragrances for the hip and happening, each with their own character:  How you relate to the fragrance says which character you undoubtedly are.

So with certain reservations, I approached each Andrea Maack scent and allowed these to settle.  The most immediately appealing is SMART which wafted gently but created it’s own little haven, smelling of soft, downy white cashmere and laid back Spring days.  This is definitely the most feminine of the trio with its come hither, sweet raindrop kisses of violet leaf, jasmine, sandalwood, vanilla, white musk and buskin.  This fragrance is an adult’s version of Beatrix Potter – all meadows and fluffy wispiness, of sun dappled light after raindrops and sweet promises, a surprising feminine little beauty.

CRAFT blasts on application and with a difference.  Rather like bathing in icy water with luxuriously expensive cleaning fluid added which will be the aldehyde.  The cold metal slice  is balanced with a bare woodiness though any patchouli present, doesn’t come through.  CRAFT is a darker, stormier whiteness – a trite mean, moody and glacial like.  If you’re an ice queen, go for it.

SHARP’s the most Margiela like fragrance with it’s steely greenness resounding of Scandanavian or New York loft apartments and serious arty types.  The white musk and sweet vanilla is noticeable on dry down and provides a meaningful backdrop but this is resolutely a strong modern fragrance for either sex.  Metal tinged and cold with a hot, warm breathe to melt the icicles.  But will it melt the icicles of your heart?  Go find out.

Andrea Maack perfumes are priced at £65 and are available in a 50 ml clear glass bottles from Les Senteurs, Elizabeth Street, London, Cow Parfymeri in Stockholm and Luckyscent in LA.   

Andrea is currently working on two more scents, due to be launched this summer.  Watch this space.

If you’d like to leave a comment regarding Andrea Maack fragrances, please do so in the comment box below.  Thank you.
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