Versace S/S ’12 Menswear review

by Katie on June 23, 2011


I don’t know when I fell out of love with Versace… a few years after Gianni’s death perhaps; the label lost its lustre and drifted off my radar.  Then, a couple of years ago I noticed stylists in high-end glossies such as Arena Homme Plus and Another were using vintage Versace in their stories.  



Recently, the striking prints and high-octane leatherwear favoured by the house of Versace have come back, literally, into Vogue, and it wasn’t long before fashion magpie Lady Gaga noticed too, choosing to feature the Versace archive in her ‘Edge of Glory’ video.

It’s a pity that it took Gaga and a just-announced collaboration with H and M for Versace to claw its way back into the spotlight, as the Spring/Summer 2012 collection feels more confident and current than any other produced since Gianni’s death.  The perfect remedy to our financial hand-wringing and make-do-and-mend austerity measures is a big fat dose of Eighties excess, which is what Versace provides in abundance.

The signature swirling prints and Greek key motifs are here, first rendered in raucous tones, and then picked out on trousers, jackets, and a diaphanous shirt which, at any other point in time, would scream “Guido” – as would the leather and suede jackets with matching buckled trousers.  Versace off-sets this palette with calm neutrals and some respectable grey suits, sleeves pushed up Sonny Crockett-style (ask your Mum).

Not everything works; a neon pink and scarlet section sails way over the top, and a canary yellow vest teamed with chestnut leather shorts resembles a camp gladiator costume.

With Miuccia Prada staking a claim as Milan’s Queen of Questionable Taste, it feels only right that Donatella returns now to reclaim her throne.  The exuberance of this collection is infectious, and reaffirms the Versace house’s place in popular culture.


Article  written by Lee Clatworth (@TeamChutzpah) for Katie Chutzpah blog
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{ 2 comments… read them below or add one }

The Very Simon G June 23, 2011 at 2:50 pm

I LOVED the collection… and camp is exactly what it is, that camp European man, sometimes greasy, always fabulously dressed!

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Duck June 27, 2011 at 8:31 pm

I didn’t LOVE this collection but I did like it, and I’m hoping it’s a sign of what will come next season. More prints, please, Donatella!

xx
Duck

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