Felder Felder keep to their West London Punk Tinged aesthetic.

by Katie on September 27, 2011

Central Saint Martins alumni Annette and Daniela Felder made their name with a politely punky, recherché rock ‘n’ roll aesthetic, contradictions that seem incredulous on paper yet which result in the perfect fusing of hard and soft, the strong and the feminine. The Felder sisters may have matured, but are still up-for-it judging by their Spring/Summer 2012 collection.

Continuing with the contrasts, there is a relaxed dressiness to these clothes, garments which can just be pulled on and look fabulous. Fluid materials in a muted palette are the order of the day, seamed knitwear, soft metallic leathers, silk jersey, “blotch-dyed” suede, and chiffon, whilst a seemingly innocuous floral print, upon close inspection, reveals itself to be a repeated image of bullet studs.

Adding a subtle subtextual decadence to the collection are some bondage-style collars, metallic bullet embroidery which snakes around the hips and bust of the bodycon dresses designed in collaboration with Triumph, and some light leather harnesses which pull in the floor-length chiffon gowns. This layering of bridlery over some pieces brought to mind the early ’90s work of the late Gianni Versace, a designer currently experiencing a posthumous moment in the spotlight. Whether this is intentional or not, it brings a certain currency to a collection which milks a few good ideas for all they are worth.

Felder Felder encapsulates the modern West London girl witnessed in their front row, the likes of Noelle Reno and Zara Martin, a little bit naughty but very nice with it. For all their posturing, you can’t help but feel that they could achieve so much more if they crossed fully over to the dark side.
Review written by Lee Clatworthy (@TeamChutzpah).
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