Chutzpah’s Weekly Barometer

by Katie on October 7, 2011


A light hearted look back over the past week’s good, bad and indifferent including the “don’t even go there’s”.

LOVING 

Haider Ackerman Spring/Summer 2012 (Pictured left)– Another exquisite collection, both in terms of colour and construction, Columbian Ackerman’s supine silk trouser suits tipped a nod and a wink to the early 90’s work of Romeo Gigli. A masterclass from the designer, surpassing every Next Big Thing superlative.


Giles Deacon Tights for New Look – We noticed two ranges of tights this week, one by Giles and one by Mary Portas. Guess which one didn’t look like Clare Grogan’s Eighties cast-offs?

Christian Louboutin at the Design Museum – Glossy red soles at the ready! Footwear maestro Louboutin celebrates his twentieth anniversary in business with a retrospective at London’s Design Museum, running from 28th March to 1st July 2012. Expect a “immersive” and “theatrical” environment from the consultancy responsible for the Christian Louboutin Apartment in Selfridges’ shoe galleries. 


Vionnet (Pictured right) – Apologies to Rodolfo Paglialunga, the Chutzpah ‘Kiss of Death’ has struck again! Days after we were raving about Paglialunga’s impeccable Spring/Summer collection for Vionnet we heard that the designer, as with Richard Nicoll and Cerruti, had left the company. With Vionnet’s stock on the rise, thanks to Madonna’s Wallis Simpson biopic ‘W.E.’, let’s hope that CEO Matteo Marzotto won’t regret his decision.


A Mainbocher Revival? – Rumoured to be rising from the grave, the influential couturier favoured by Wallis Simpson and another house featured heavily in Madonna’s film. We will actually scream VERY LOUDLY if this comes to pass.

Manland – How long before singletons start targeting Ikea’s husband creche?

‘The Tomb of the Unknown Craftsman’ – Turner Prize-winning Perry curates an intriguing show of new work alongside found objects from the British Museum’s collection. Running until 19th February 2012, this exhibit promises to be both entertaining and thought-provoking.


Nanoblur – Taking the UK by storm and promising ’10 Years Younger in 40 Seconds.’ While I’d debate this literal claim, Nanoblur’s millions of micro prisms certainly tighten lines and airbrushes skin, making them instantly ‘disappear’. For a short term fix, this is a winner for £19.95 at Boots. The scenes of hundreds of beauty professionals clambering to try it at the launch was unforgetable.



HATING
Jodie Harsh’s new look – We thought she had finally gone but it now transpires she’s had herself covered herself in Cuprinol and disguised herself as a hatstand.

Kanye West’s Paris Collection – Nicola Formichetti and Dior’s pattern cutter Bill Gaytten have already shown us the dubious results of moonlighting as a designer. Kanye thought he could namedrop Hedi and Phoebe and throw $$$$$ at some undisclosed design talent, yet still managed to drag the term “vanity project”down to a fresh low.


Asos Revive (Pictured Left)– Last week we spoke about a Rifat Ozbek revival, and this week we’re showing you how not to do it. So utterly uugh! we hear that Kanye’s using it as his inspiration for next season.


Coleen Noleen – Or Noleen Colon as she’s been delightfully dubbed by cruel tabloid journos, outed herself as a narrow-minded homophobic eejit during a debate on gay adoption. We didn’t think we could like her less but oh, how we can.

“Where There Is Pressure There is Folkdance” – As seen in the Celine mood book. A jig from Phoebe Philo might’ve lifted what is essentially another soporific collection, frankly.


Gimmicky Footwear – Valentino selling out with off-brand espadrilles is one thing, but Louis Vuitton’s sock puppet-aping “Quack” shoe is quite another entirely (Pictured right). Oh please God, don’t let Marc near Dior, we don’t need couture inspired by eg ‘The Muppets Take Manhattan’.


Fashion Calendar Clashes – With New York starting late next September, London looks to be the biggest victim of the fashion week pile-up. Will the editors stand by their word and favour homegrown talent over Milan’s multi-million pound advertising spend brands? Errrrrrr….

Patrick Cox Makes Gold Geox Shoes for Elton John – And the entire fashion world yawns and checks their cuticles. Elton John in gold shoes hasn’t been news for over forty years. Oh, but now we’ve mentioned it. DAMN!. GEOX 1:Team Chutzpah 0.

DON’T CARE
Competitive Mourning for Steve Jobs – It’s time to get a grip before all social media collapses under the pandemic calls for Steve Jobs’ beatification. Jobs may have touched our lives and been a visionary who changed the way we interact with technology but we’ve all paid through the nose for the privilege, again and again as Apple drip fed us functionality and updates like a crack dealer might groom an addict. It’s worth remembering that Apple products’ aesthetic shock and awe comes courtesy of British Senior Vice President of Industrial Design, Jonathan Ive. Steve Jobs’ ‘inspirational’ public speaking was mostly a call to arms convincing us to “spend, spend, spend”, first on hardware and then on content. As Johnny Rotten once asked, on a stage in America ironically enough, “Ever been had?”


Barometer compiled by Lee Clatworthy (@TeamChutzpah) and Katie Chutzpah.

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