David Koma’s Glamazon Futuristic Warrior Women for S/S’12

by Katie on October 27, 2011

I have to admit to a blind spot in regards to Central Saint Martins graduate David KomaKoma rose to fame a couple of seasons ago off theback of then ‘X Factor’ starlet Cheryl Cole and a few collections which ploughed the same event-ready modernist furrow as Hannah Marshall. 

Whilst admittedly well cut and constructed, I couldn’t help but feel Koma’s shapes were a little bit pedestrian, relying too heavily(literally) on clunky embellishment or saucy, peek-a-boo cutaway sections to provide excitement, whilst less successful pieces could look more at home at the back of an Eighties Robert Palmer video.

Well, I’m about to eat my words because Koma’s Spring/Summer 2012collection is, if not a triumph, light years away from his constrictive Yayoi Kusama-inspired Autumn/Winter offering. 

Before I discuss what this collection is I think it’s important to mention what it isn’t. The taut bodycon of previous collections hasbeen replaced with an almost sporty lightness and movement hither to unhinted at, the designer’s glamazons now stride confidently insteadof appearing trussed. A welcome addition to the David Koma oeuvre. 

Sidestepping the usual modern art namedropping (Korean body art obsessive Kim Joon on this occasion), Koma has pillaged indigenous tribes across the globe, from Polynesian tattoos to African Zulu skirts and Dinka corsets, reimagining these disparate inspirations as graphic devore prints and fringed leather miniskirts worn over longer kilt-like numbers and floor-grazing trousers. 

Iridescent Perspex plates and holographic sequins pepper an exacting palette of black, white, and acidic ravey tones, the designer’s sci-fitwist on the collection’s vestigial influences. 

My admiration for David Koma stretches beyond these futuristic warriorwomen. This is a designer who knew that he had to take it to the next level, and has done so with aplomb. 

Sure, I can still imagine Cheryl Cole wearing these clothes – except this time she’ll be all the more interesting because of them.

Review written by Lee Clatworthy (@TeamChutzpah) for Katie Chutzpah blog.
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