Atelier Versace’s S/S’12 Couture show

by Katie on January 24, 2012

I always love Parisian couture and the idea behind it.  All those skilled ateliers toiling for months on intricate detailing and patterns, the creating of art as fashion and yes, even the elitism.

But couture these days sees more and more attempts to raise ready-to-wear brand’s profile (largely to sell mainline, perfume and handbags from the back of this) with less and less skill being applied. It takes years of experience to master the aligning of a couture look with a house’s customer. Something that Herr Lagerfeld has down to a fine art on a stellar level at a rival brand.  
At Versace, with Donatella on her current roll, we see a valiant attempt but somehow this limited collection came through as more Katie Price than Kate Middleton. The linear lines, the sexiness and the power were there but really, was this just vamped up mainline masquerading as ultra elitism for bank rolled power wives and mistresses with ex model film star luminaries such as Cameron Diaz and Diane Kruger looking on?  
Skin tight, curve emphasising and red carpet the collection may be, but the class and workmanship didn’t seem to shine quite as brightly as other collections. Gold, crystals and laser-cut silk and plastic laminate all vied for attention, somewhat confusingly while the shapes of the dresses were formed by gold metal petals, sculpting the body, creating a 3D quality to shoulders and necklines – this was a truly Versace touch expected from the full on, power sexy label.
The biker jacket, a signature design of the house, was reworked in gold leather, while transparent lace, encrusted with crystals, added more shimmer.

Gold and silver in tones of champagne and pearl grey are injected with shots of vivid orange and acid green, a rich cocktail of the dramatic Versace palette.

It may have been signature Versace, but signature couture? I doubt it.

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