Bottega Veneta A/W ’12 Menswear review

by Katie on January 25, 2012

So far this week I’ve spoken in length about the financial constraints affecting menswear designers, as well as the existing sartorial codes which seem to be eroding at the same rate as the Great Pyramids of Egypt. If anyone can work within such stifling confines it’s Tomas Maier, the creative director of Bottega Veneta.

Maier’s Autumn/Winter 2012 offering takes the current staples of the male wardrobe (a narrow suit, jeans, a decent ‘Perfecto’ jacket), cuts them in a precise, body-conscious manner, and then creates surface interest through overlaid geometric forms. This is at its most effective when applied to a selection of subtly checked suiting.

Denim is coated and quilted and overcoats feature leather panels on arms, alluding to the motorsport trend which has recurred over the last couple of seasons. The palette remains a murkily autumnal melange of greys, blues, and browns, plus hints of army green, which is rapidly emerging as next season’s accent colour.

The real shock here is how little leather featured on the catwalk, save some specific details on outerwear, a couple of shearlings, a leather peacoat, and the stack-heeled boots worn by the models. This is especially surprising when you consider Bottega Veneta’s background as a luxury luggage house. Whilst other brands are filling their presentations with accessorises, Maier has the confidence to let the clothes speak for themselves, such as a shrunken bomber with peaked shoulders which resembles a matador’s costume.

Unlike the ostentatious opulence at Dolce & Gabbana, Maier doesn’t feel the need to shout, his only moment of madness being a silver shearling aviator jacket and, even then, this feels entirely right in context.

Review written by Lee Clatworthy (@TeamChutzpah) for Katie Chutzpah Blog


Catwalk pics kindly supplied by www.style.com


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