Trussardi 1911 A/W’12 Menswear review

by Katie on January 17, 2012

Even though I was only young in the Seventies, I can still vividly recall ‘World of Sport’ with Dickie Davies on a Saturday afternoon, a repository for men with sideburns who did heroic things with balls, cars, and motorcycles. It is one of these sporting legends, Formula 1 racing car driver Jackie Stewart, who provides the main influence for Umit Benan’s second collection for Italian leather house Trussardi, as does the company’s heritage as a glove maker.
Nicknamed ‘The Flying Scotsman’, Stewart raced and partied hard, and was well known for his plaid caps and matching pants. Benan has lovingly revived these, adding a kicky flare to the leg and tightening the crotch. This pimpy tailoring comes in a natty check, grey cashmere, or terracotta suede, worn with wide-lapelled, double-breasted jackets and unbuttoned shirts.

Geometric patterns adorn knitwear, and are repeated on printed cravats. Outerwear is either pliant leather or trimmed with fur. Benan may have made his name by channelling the Eighties, but his exuberant ode to the previous decade is equally as intoxicating, occasionally bringing to mind the wardrobe of fictional dandy and private investigator Jason King from cult television series ‘Department S’.
As you would expect from The Decade That Taste Forgot, some of the colour combinations are more than a little peppy, a mix of rust, orange, and pink being particularly wince-inducing, however the designer pulls this back, and the overall mood is fundamentally stylish rather than just reverential tack.
As with everything Umit Benan creates, there is a slight lounge lizard seediness to this compact collection, but if we ignore the overly conscious styling we’re left with covetable coats and knits, and some of the best luggage shown so far.

Catwalk pics kindly supplied by www.style.com To see more show pics click on the link.
Review by Lee Clatworthy (@TeamChutzpah) for Katie Chutzpah Blog.
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