Dolce & Gabbana’s Night at The Opera for A/W’12

by Katie on February 27, 2012

Fashion appears to be in love with minimalism at the moment. You only have to see the fawning gasps of appreciation by fashion editors over such designers as the newly elevated Simone Rocha, J JS Lee, Alexander Wang and not failing to mention the haloed Celine. Which is why Dolce & Gabbana’s continued play of opulence ‘coltura’ is a welcome if expected sojourn and why they continue, 27 years on, to have so many celebrities and actresses tripping over themselves to hoist their bosoms skywards and squeeze themselves into seductive Sicilian lace, tulle and corsetry with lashing of leopard print optional.

Dolce & Gabbana revel in being Sicilian and typically set the operatic theme this season with rosebud entwined gilt chandeliers, numerous arias and huge mirrors bedecked in floral bouquets at the entrance to the catwalk. The only thing missing was the proverbial fat lady singing.

The theme seemed straight from a night at Venice’s famous Teatro La Fenice with the stream of models kicking off the set ornately covered in opulent gold braided, short opera coats and dresses with strict ’60s lines. Rich gold brocade and embroidery was rife on waist and necklines and beautiful flowing opera coats and capes that seemed to come from another era, worn over sexy see-through lace dresses. Frothy heavily embroidered lace white lace, high necked shirts and gathered pure white skirts arrived and then were teamed with fur capelets and brocade embroidered skirts.

Though bursting with over exuberance on the gilt front, Dolce and Gabbana still showed their array of traditional bras, big bold knickers and corsetry, but this time they peeped through the opulence of the operatic pieces and complemented the layers of frou frou tulle. Shimmery gold lace featured as did leopard print capes with astrakhan linings.

All the model maidens sported sweet floral and golden hairbands. Floral needlepoint tapestry was key to the theme with short 3/4 sleeve dresses, capelets and ’50s style hobble skirts all bursting in bloom and accompanied by vintage style, floral tapestry bags. 

This wasn’t ‘new new’ for Dolce & Gabbana and there were no huge departures. Instead the duo opted to ramp up their usual doze of sexiness in a huge collection that transported Dolce & Gabbana’s exuberant Sicilian maximalism to the forefront – still highly recognisable and highly divisive to the fashion cognoscenti as ever. I loved it.


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