Gucci merges Anna Karenina Infuences with Commercial Realism for A/W’12

by Katie on February 27, 2012

I’m not sure about this season’s Gucci, to be honest. Is it commercial genius or is it just beginning to look a bit ‘older woman’ without the edginess? Yes, there are huge high points in this Fall/Winter ’12 collection, dripping in luxe fabrications such as lush rich velvets, jacquards, fine wools and fur but is this collection solely a step to appeasing the emerging markets in Russia, China and the Far East with its nods to a 19th Anna Karenina striding the 21st Century global meltdown?
These days Anna K Gucci style means business and she wears the trousers – jodhpur breeches to be precise and in leather, jacquard and the softest wool. Gathered comfortably at the top of the thigh, these narrow down to slim proportions elongating the legs of Ms Gucci. Traditional Russian kosovorotka styling on shirts appeared with their traditional high collars and side buttoning which was also a feature on power jacquard dresses. More traditional sexy curves and frills appeared on shirts teamed with wrap skirts that draped from the waist.
Capes flowed (a major trend this season) while coats had either high lapels or shawl collars. Layering and the build up of luxurious textures added to Frida Giannini’s romantic yet dark vision. This is for a woman who literally means business with its kick ass luxury and commercial nuance. Powerful and with masculine touches, Gucci is the choice du jour for executive woman on a mission, or for the power wives of the increasing rich.
Yet fear thee not, there’s still high octane glamour there for the taking. Red carpet evening wear was one of the collections strongest features with frill edged flowing gowns in deep wine, yards of black chiffon and tulle with pleating and emerald green, printed panne velvet. Pantsuits were an option in see through devore velvet and the finest, deepest silk velvet. Frida rounded her collection with an array of iridescent black feathered dresses and pieces as if she was finally ruffling the feathers of the fash pack.

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