Louise Gray’s Pop Art Punks for A/W’12

by Katie on February 20, 2012

I’m not ashamed to say that I spent most of the presentation for Louise Gray’s formidable Autumn/Winter 2012 collection dancing. From Franklin Fuentes’ opening diatribe on ‘Work It Girlfriend’, to bitch house Sound Factory anthem ‘Get Your Hands Off My Man’, I was hooked.
As Gray comments in her show notes, “the collection is about everything, all the time” so the mid-Nineties New York club scene wasn’t the only influence. Graphics simultaneously reference the Quick Response matrix barcodes used to sell everything nowadays, as well as Eighties Pop artists such as Basquiat, Haring, and Sprouse, whilst punky bleached headpieces echo New Wave heroine Debbie Harry, and even Toyah Wilcox’s crowning glory.
Gray adds an uptown sleekness to the downtown attitude; the faux naivety of the designer’s infamous balloon headpiece collection has been fine-tuned in two seasons, difficult shapes replaced with a more wearable silhouette. It isn’t hard to imagine women of sixteen to sixty won over by Gray’s vibrant collarless coats, cashmere knits, foil-printed shifts, or even the killer Pollini by Nicholas Kirkwood boots.
Despite the mish-mash of colours, patterns, and textures, these pieces are far from impenetrable, and are imbued with effervescence, an infectious potpourri of popular culture.
This is a next-level collection. Forget “up-and-coming”, the Central Saint Martins graduate has finally cemented her status on the London schedule.
Review written by Lee Clatworthy (@TeamChutzpah) for Katie Chutzpah blog (@KatieChutzpah)
Catwalk images courtesy of www.style.com

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