Back to Basics at Matthew Miller for S/S’13

by Katie on June 28, 2012

Following the previous explosion of pattern and colour, Matthew Miller has taken a ‘Back to Basics’ approach to his Spring/Summer 2013 menswear collection. Tailoring is tighter, the palette is stripped back to an almost totally monochromatic minimum, and the militia aesthetic of last season has been dialled down a few notches.
Cut, cloth, and construction are the collection’s leitmotif. A self-confessed geek, and regular contributor to Nike’s ‘Mobilize Makers’ initiative, the use of textiles is bleeding-edge, with performance materials such as fire blankets, metallic silver insulation, and rock climbing apparatus subverted to Miller’s creative whims.

The sole print in this selection is an image taken from CCTV surveillance of concrete council flats, vividly repeated over shirts and suits, and laser cut graphics referencing designers from the British Fashion Council and Arcadia Group’s MAN and NEWGEN programmes adorn certain pieces.

The designer’s collaboration with footwear brand Oliver Sweeney continues into this season, the textual graphics and cut-out details carried over onto a shoe with high-lustre leather uppers, and a clear-soled trainer. The over sized rucksack also makes a return, rendered in a super-light, super-durable techno fabric.

Matthew Miller continues to bring a bewildering level of invention and vision to the table – his T-shirt which unfolds upon tearing along a heat-transferred panel looks set to achieve the same cult status as Hussein Chalayan’s envelope dress. It’s this constant strive for innovation which cements Miller’s place as one of the most exciting menswear designers working in Great Britain today.
Review written by Lee Clatworthy (@TeamChutzpah) for Katie Chutzpah blog.

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