I blame @TeamChutzpah for starting my latest obsession with DSQUARED2. Dean and Dan Caten’s wit and exuberance has shone in recent collections and S/S’13 continues in much the same vein.
The boy TC also turned me on to the genius Mert & Marcus ‘The Substitute’ video from the Caten Brothers focusing on shoes and catwalk sashaying. I have been known to Vogue That Runway (often in gay clubs, egged on by the various A-Gayers) so can appreciate where this substitute teacher is coming from. Flashback to the legendary ’90s catwalk shows from Versace featuring the glorious supermodels of the day (still showing the younger girls how to ‘werk it’), the big hair, the loud colours, the zsush and the frothiness of it still reeks of a glamour that, well, just isn’t there now, sadly. In my PR heyday, I opened the Versace Bond Street store and wowsah, the place virtually heaved with colour and gold Medusae. Too much at the time but never enough now.
Leap forward to S/S’13 and DSQUARED2 focuses firmly on the unforgettable glamour, sexiness and vivacity of the 1990’s. This latest collection reveres this era and the unforgettable looks. Cue extravagant and lavish personas with gold chain adornments on belts, studding detail on miniature purses, chain necklaces and lively high cone heels in metallic hues of fuchsia and cerulean reptile. Biker Couture is evoked in leather outerwear, denim and ornamented skirts consisting of white piping and gold fringe tassells, all in the best possible gaudy taste.
Nautical inspired denim is laser striped and further paired with tops and lush trousers fabricated in silk georgette. Flirtatious mini-dresses feature a bit of flouncy flair that sways, while simultaneously appealing to Ms Modern with hand stitched bi-fabrications in animated colour tones.
Hot and happening ’90s locations such as Miami’s South Beach are referenced in colours such as bright yellow that are further complimented with denim and floral accents. This key colour is also offered in contrasting combinations with tones of both black and white. Evening inspired renaissance maxi gowns and coats are interpreted in dramatic tones of purples, greens and black in opulent silk duchesse satin.
The late Gianni would be pleased with such a cute homage to his idiosyncratic style.