So this was a couture show that channeled ‘sehr typische’ Versace and, while not being an ode to her dead brother, managed to convey the sheer essence of Gianni. And by essence, we mean sex. Lots of sex – slashes, slits and ruffles to thigh, tight panelled mini dresses so high they were crotch skimming, corsets, see through organza, slits to navel and tons of Medusae and scarf prints. Indeed, a Versace overload that sounds crass but was the polar opposite. This couture collection breathed Italian chutzpah & wealth, as only diva Donatella knows how.
Based on the idea of deconstruction and reconstruction, the imagery and decoration of the Tarot were splayed across the collection. Waists were cinched and tiny as large boxer-type belts (also seen in the menswear collection) held in place the sheer frothy and flyaway feminity. This was red-carpet, entrance grabbing, attention-seeking wear for women with long legs, curves and multo Euros.
Patches of silicone, pearl and crystal mesh, and the play of light were reflected by the subtle tones of colour that flowed from one dress to the next. Techniques and details included hand-cut leather in small hexagonal patterns and lacing made from silk chiffon, used to piece each patch together.
Roman numerals, Stars, Lovers and the signs of Good Fortune appeared as three-dimensional embroideries on the boxer belts with metal studs and hand-cut pieces of plastic.
Baroque rings (shown as the new Atelier Versace jewellery collection), crafted in gold and platinum are mounted with precious stones such as yellow diamonds, topazes and emeralds.
This is flash for sure. Damn fine flash in all its glory. I’m in.