Raf Simons Ice Cool Restraint Wins Hearts & Minds at Dior

by Katie on July 3, 2012

There will be reams of column inches devoted to ‘did he or didn’t he?’ (win over the fash pack) with his first Dior outing but Raf Simons showed not only his pedigree but his taste level and good manners as he cut a sharp trajectory from Dior’s ’50s past to future with a scintillating sythe that could have sliced the hemline of the cinched waist ‘bar’ jacket which opened the show.
This was Dior on mute. Not screamy, shouty, hissy-fit, look at me, attention seeking couture (many have expressed he was a tad too discreet) but ice cooly executed with a chilly restraint that more than nodded to the House’s heritage in myriad ways. How those ice-queens with grace and froideur melted the hearts and minds of Dior admirers. Gone was the glorious gusto of Galliano (and as a bona-fide Galliano girl, he is missed in droves) and in its place, Raf’s refinement stood head and bared shoulders above the pack.
As many designers as FROW editors watched and learned (Diane von Furstenberg, Azzedine Alaia, Alber Elbaz, Marc Jacobs, Olivier Theyskens, Riccardo Tisci, Donatella Versace etc) as Raf sent his girls, graceful and calm into a bevvy of floral clad rooms that mirrored the gentle femininity and colours of the collection.
Raf leaned heavily on the past (as one felt he would do) to re-claim the house before carting it off into the future. This was a notch on the belt for the first mile in a new direction as the styling more than the cut indicated. Strapless, cinched waists and peplums abounded as did frou-frou type, ornate floral tutus paired over black pants that you just know will be lengthened and honed for Dior’s current customer and worn toutes-seules.
The palest most ice-maiden, blue tinged pink re-appeared (first hinted at in Simon’s farewell Sander collection) in a Hepburn’esque strapless dress with emphasised hip pockets to highlight the ‘new look’ as did the scarlet red coat dress with metallic belt (similar to one shown currently in London’s V&A). Purples, Dior dove grey and black only served to highlight the shocks of colour like the body-skimming, see though, yellow ballgown or the lipstick red satin duchesse that fell in heaps while boned and corseted to the form.
Raf veered most to the future with the trailing wrap strapless tops whose ends hung kimono-like and weaving against the simple black cut-off pants with which they were shown. Texture was toyed with beading and felted velvets while pattern exploded in the dip-dye, three quarter length and full length ballgowns. Simons included Dior’s staple dogtooth while playing with an elongated form and included huge, expansive Debutante-type full skirts and red carpet ballgowns aplenty.
Simplicity was summarised in the coral red silk t-shirt and voluminous wide, slit pants that are bound to appear in magazine editorials come September. You can bet your sweet advertising on that.

As for Simons, he’ll sleep easy. He delivered in droves.

Catwalk images used by kind permission of www.style.com. Please click on the link for all new catwalk images of the latest S/S’13 couture shows.
Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...

Leave a Comment

Previous post:

Next post: