Ashish says ‘I’m Serious’ with his S/S’13 collection
Think you have Ashish Gupta pigeon-holed as a one-note sequin fetishist then think again. For me, the most important outfit shown during the catwalk presentation for his Spring/Summer 2013 collection was a plain white deconstructed shirt and matching gathered skirt. Out of the sea of atypical adornment, denim and jersey, this outfit positively screamed “It’s time to take me seriously”.
Ashish loves to send messages during his shows – who can forget his bon mots to bloggers on one of his brothel creepers, “More people read this shoe than your blog”? So the first look, a sweater with the slogan “I’m serious” was a pretty hefty hint of what was to come.
The mood of the collection is sexy geek chic, featuring abstract clashes where garments have literally been sliced and spliced to create a style of uniform randomness, where the only joining links are the pared-back palette and the usual surfeit of sequins. Imagine a Sorbonne party girl with a head for mathematics and a body for sin.
Denim is slouchy and stonewashed, sometimes embellished and sometimes printed sparingly with numbers, a print which features throughout the collection, and some similarly sparse polka dots.
With the back rapidly becoming the primary focus for next Summer, it’s no surprise that there’s plenty on display here, which resulted in a discussion between Katie and I concerning the necessary engineering underneath a backless vest. This was clever stuff, aided and abetted by ‘Untitled’ fashion director Anna Trevelyan’s witty styling.
And, yes, there were the standard sequined party frocks, but it was the more casual pieces that stood out.
Another missive at the end. “Tres fatigue”. Another sign that Ashish is sick of just being “That sequin guy”? Look beneath the surface, behind the glitter, and you’ll discover so much more.
Review written by Lee Clatworthy (@TeamChutzpah) for Katie Chutzpah blog