Walking around the exhibitions at London Fashion Week and talking shop with the designers, it seems that international buyers were a little thin on the ground this season. Maybe this was expected, as some established designers have sidestepped progression and invention in favour of concentrating on their core strengths.
Anyone for tennis? Well, David Koma for one, who re-imagined the female tennis stars of the early Twentieth Century on London’s King’s Road in the Sixties.
This fanciful foundation translated into a sharp, concise Spring/Summer 2013 collection of typically short, sexy body-conscious dresses with drop-waists, kicky pleats, and patent leather details. A graphic tennis net print is reinterpreted in bugle beading, whilst open backs and cut-outs abound.
As you’d expect with such sporting influences, the palette is dominated by a crisp white, with hits of grassy green, sapphire, and tangerine.
The end result is typically David Koma, even when hidden under oversized organza layers. It’s hard to dislike this collection on the strength of its focus and execution – those pleats, for instance, are knife-sharp, even if there is nothing fresh on the table.
I suspect that the transition from catwalk to the backs of die-hard David Koma fans like Cheryl Cole and Kylie will be swift, and high street chains like Karen Millen will also have taken notes. Let’s hope those elusive buyers have too because, for a showcase recently criticised by esteemed fashion writer Colin McDowell as “a festival of childish self-indulgence”, Koma’s carefully considered, soundly constructed collection stands out by a country mile.