This was a curious collection for Dolce & Gabbana. Not as it was rooted in their native Sicily and brimming over with ‘La Dolce Vita’ as it normally is, but because it took such a sharp right angle from their last operatic baroque showing which remains in the mind’s eye as it fashioned a thousand column inches.
For S/S’13, the boys have taken a mix of typical Sicilian bright print scarves, stripes, raffia and small town girl from the slopes of Mount Etna styling and merged this with typical tourist trappings of clashing scarf prints, over sized enthusiasm for the area and Southern (Italian) belle largess. This was a BIG show in terms of pouf. We’re here and we’re on holiday.
Now as a Taormina lover of some time, I get this. But I also get that Dolce & Gabbana usually gives me escapism and fine fine baroque to raise my expectations. The duo make clothes for sexy women who know how to rock a wiggle skirt. So perhaps it was the faintly peasant girl from the cobbled streets feel that didn’t ‘quite’ turn me on as much as usual. Or, perhaps it’s the thought of souvenir silk scarf print atop one another that scared me. The fact of the matter is, it didn’t quite ooze sex as much as the label is famed for.
Sure, there are bras and girdles peeping through raffia, brilliant weave corsetry and vast underskirts with a fine chiffon thrown over the top, embroidered ‘sacking’ and raffia ensembles, the beautiful obligatory Dolce & Gabbana black lace (it *is* Sicily after all) and enough colour, life and embellishment that is the trademark of the brand, but, I have to say, this is a collection that can easily influence high street imitations (such as Zara) when what is usually Dolce & Gabbana cannot ever be easily replicated due to its ornate, intricate detailing and sumptuous fabric choices.
Saying that, the show styling, as always was exceptional, proving that when the boys take the theme (as ever) and run with it to the end of the line, no detail is left untouched. When Domenico and Stefano stayed true to their tried and tested (crochet, black, lace, underwear as outerwear) it all came right. This veer to Sicilian street meets tourist style I’m putting down to a slight blip.