Goga Ashkenazi’s First Collection for Vionnet for S/S’13

by Katie on September 30, 2012

The ever revolving doors scenario continues at Vionnet. A label that garnered much hype and excitement at it’s re-launch, and, bar from a couple of seasons, has never really hit its stride.

What does is want to be? An homage to the past with nods at one of the greatest living designers ever, or a completely new re-invention with it’s own steer? No one seems to know. Least of all the constant stream of designers who have fallen foul of the label’s one-in-one-out policy, the latest victims being the Croce sisters (never right for the label to my mind) after Rudy Paglialunga’s bold efforts at making a stance.
The new creative director is multi millionairess and erstwhile ‘friend’ of Prince Andrew, Goga Ashkenazi, who is also *coughs* Vionnet’s new owner. Now, this may be one hell of a vanity project and currently the fashion world is ‘out’ on whether it will be a success, but I’m guessing Ms Ashkenazi will be taking tips from Ms Beckham and (allegedly) leaning on other ghost designer forces to refine the label and it’s direction. Just guessing. But I’d put a couple of £s on at Ladbrokes on that one
For Spring/Summer 2013, Ashkenazi has taken inspiration from its legendary founder Mme Madeleine Vionnet but revisiting her methods for a modern, active, socially-conscious woman.

The founder’s trademark draping techniques were used on double georgette column gowns, chiffon sleeveless tops and belted crepe de chine cocktail dresses. All envelop and enhance the body’s curves without ever constricting it as Vionnet was the first to set women free from the tyranny of corsetry.
Asymmetrical cutting created different volumes and fluid draping effects. Gentle folds on the front of tailored jackets and wide leg pants, allow traditionally masculine pieces to come alive on the female form. Art deco patterns, stylized flower embroideries, and delicate usage of pearls all were a nod to the details and materials of Madame Vionnet’s golden years.
Sheer layers of silk tulle or technical netting create a veil-effect over draped gowns. The tuxedo shirt has been feminised in silk or tulle. Clusters of metallic rhombus shaped sequins and 3D printed satin applications gave shine to an otherwise clean and simple yet elegant and sophisticated palette of white, black and lacquer red.
And the money shot? Vionnet’s new signature handbag, with an inverted “V” graphic, is a collapsible canvas shopper with suede and crocodile inserts and detachable handles. Pearl crusted cuffs and sting ray clutches are luxe extras. Sting ray, crocodile, leather or satin footwear features curved heels on classic pumps, high heeled mules, or T strap sandals, while a new printed crocodile technique is found on gold sauvage leather.
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