Gucci’s Triumphant Return to Form for S/’S’13
I’ve had issues with Gucci with some of its recent seasons’ showings. A fan from it’s re-vamped, sexed up heyday in the ’90s, first with Rose Marie Bravo and then Tom Ford at the helm, re-marketing it to an audience of willing Gucci fashion slaves, it’s been hit and miss and has never quite captured the vampy lure of the sexy sophisticate that Ford, especially, breathes from every pore of his design being.
Frida Giannini would always have had a difficult act to follow especially as the brand veers from classic to trend to classic which tends to confuse the issue for fashionphiles rather than clarify their stance – we all know where we are with a snaffle loafer for sho’ but not since the days of Ford’s low slung modernised silver snaffle bits slung across the hip have we seen a Gucci that is re-staking it’s claim for sexy elegance and red carpet subtle hedonism. It’s back on form.
What we saw in this upbeat and focused S/S’13 showing was a vivid return to colour, life, slinky smooth elegance, structure and some intricate detailing tailoring in swathes and drapes as sleeves became a key statement (very much like our own Roksanda Ilincic showed last season) as well as covered-up subtle sexiness in heaps with folds, frills and drapes from the neck in column dresses and tunics.
The heart raced as vivid shades of cobalt, fuchsia, chartreuse, coral and jade statement pieces stalked the runway with a smattering of sexy snakeprint and finishing with a series of stunning black pieces that editorial pages will be clamouring to feature.
Giannini also made a play to Ford’s ’90s vision with long lines whether these be column dresses, long pants and tunics (a trademark Ford’ism), statement costume jewellery and more than a definitive nod to ’70s international glamour that Gianinni described as ‘aristographic’. Think sultry Alexandra Bastedo in ‘The Champions’ and you’ll catch my drift. (The latter was one of the most defining fashion icons of my childhood).
This was a brand’s return to confidence though it may be a re-worked souped up vision of Gucci past with not enough twists and turns of her own, Giannini’s paved the way for a new era of Gucci love. It’s time to fall head over heels with the big ‘G’ again. Frida’s got the bit between our teeth and she’s reigning us in.
Catwalk imagery used by kind permission of www.style.com. Click on the link to see more catwalk images from S/S’13 collections.