Peter Dundas’ Pucci takes Eastern influences from Vietnam & Korea
Peter Dundas at Emilio Pucci is one of those quiet men of fashion. The native Norwegian continues to update the house season on season with his ultimately glamorous vision that cleverly merges street style influences with the ultimate chic and heritage of Pucci, taking print as a keystone but always, always creating the most divine, slick, wantable clothes that Milan can offer. These are for grown-ups. With taste and cash.
For Spring ’13, Dundas yet again has managed to pull a masterstroke – Pucci print, sumptuous, sexy billowing silks, chiffons and organzas and a key trend (kimonos) that makes for a collection that is one of the most polished to be presented this Milanese season.
This Pucci has oodles of nightlife and glamour for the European playgirl.
If Marios Schwab focused on Conrad’s ‘Heart of Darkness’ as a key inspiration for S/S’13, then Dundas took it one step further by lightening it. His Vietnamese/Korean tinged Heart of Darkness was purest white on white with Pucci camo prints, Chinoiserie, gold dragons, buckets of sheer and silk MA1 jackets with Pucci logo that were extended, long line to dresses and a cornerstone of the collection. This was a post modern Madame Butterfly who took her American G.I’s style and made it her own.
Pure white organza vests with ribbon detailing were worn over sheer front panelled silk pants with low slung pockets – the leg glimpsed as a new erogenous zone. Mandarin collared tunics, tight body skimming organza dresses, long line MA1 style blousons worn as jackets or paired with harem style pants all added to the relaxed, louche vibe. Throw on aviator glasses and the look was ‘there’. One shouldered, pure white dresses with white on white dragon detailing were worn over the key panelled pant – Pucci woman could either go it alone or layer as styled. Camo Pucci print blousons and pants, quilted short kimono dresses wrapped or worn open and layered and mandarin shirts or sheer skirts with Chinese bow detailing all relayed the Khmer Rouge style.
There was plenty of show stopping columns there for the Pucci traditionalist. Pure white column dresses with keyhole detailing and modernist low slung pockets oozed sophistication and there was plenty of (pared back) glitz gold detailing as Chinese dragons or understated foil and sequins on sexy sheer dresses. Thigh high slits as always, made for leg revealing Pucci sensuality.
This was an on form show from an on form designer. The world needs to see more and make more of Dundas. Clued up celebrities need look no further than this house to make a statement of taste.
Catwalk pics by kind courtesy of www.style.com