Fyodor Golan’s myriad influences for S/S’13

by Katie on October 4, 2012

The spectre of Riccardo Tisci’s Givenchy looms large over London – as well it should, and I’m not just talking about the surfeit of Birds of Paradise prints dotting the show audiences. Let’s face it; Tisci is The Daddy at the moment, so it’s no surprise that some up-and-coming designers may look to him for inspiration.

The most obvious example of this is the way some designers work their influences; taking historical inspirations and mingling them with a modernist aesthetic and mid-Twentieth Century elements.

Former Fashion Fringe winners Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman are only in their fourth season, yet are proving to be one of the highlights of the schedule.  Their Spring/Summer 2013 collection hangs off a typically Tiscish (Tisci-esque?) range of influences, from Margot Mifflin’s ‘The Blue Tattoo’, an account of a Victorian girl’s travels with an indigenous North American tribe, to the writing of auteur and spiritual guru Alejandro Jodorowsky, by way of some moulded resin headpieces from Zara Gorman. Intricate facial jewellery courtesy of British Fashion Council Rock Vault designers Yunus & Eliza is a slightly obvious Givenchy nose-ring homage.

That’s not to say that this is a derivative collection by any means. Whilst some designers boldly display their couture pretensions on their press release, yet are unable to follow through, Fyodor Golan actually nail it. And there’s a lot going on here; draping and dramatic oversized peplums, appliqué, embroidery, devore, lace, ruffles, sheer sleeves, and loosely woven “trellis” pieces. One corset is adorned with broken porcelain, whilst others are embellished with raw quartz.

The intricacy is dazzling, if a little incoherent, all pulled together by a restricted use of colour and an assured sense of structure. There are blues and purples, followed by reds and oranges. The result is rather elemental and, yes, quite spiritual. One long dress with trailing chiffon flames simultaneously recalls shamanic robes and Native American stories of the Thunderbird, a Phoenix-type myth.

As with every Fyodor Golan collection I’ve seen, a curve ball is thrown in at the end in the shape of a beaded Masai dress, switching the influence from Givenchy to Gaultier – another master of couture. Immaculate, if a little incongruous, it’s the perfect example of the only thing wrong with this collection. When Fyodor Golan learn to edit they will be unstoppable.

Review written by Lee Clatworthy (@TeamChutzpah) for Katie Chutzpah blog.

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{ 2 comments… read them below or add one }

Nick Bain October 5, 2012 at 12:11 pm

Soo many designers should heed those wise words on editing. Though tragically if some did there would be little collection left to show.

It annoys me when you see pieces apparently let down the catwalk just to reach a preordained figure of 24 or 36 or 32 looks. If it doesnt work leave it out.

As a designer it’s almost impossible to see this for yourself, you’re too close to the pieces, to your creations but get someone who’s eye and design aesthetic you trust. Let them be ruthless, but also still fight your corner.


A Lauren to Herself October 8, 2012 at 2:28 pm

Wow, some gorgeous pieces here Katie. Love it! Can’t imagine wandering down the street, Starbucks in hand, wearing any of them though. If only us mortals could carry them off! ; )


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