Gaytten takes John Galliano in the Right Direction for S/S’13

by Katie on October 1, 2012

I can’t really believe I’m going to say what I’m going to say but Bill Gaytten did good.

After a number of disastrously off-key seasons at Dior with Gaytten ‘baby-sitting’ the house for the modern couturier that would be Raf, Gaytten has gone back to his roots albeit Galliano’s early house motifs and produced a John Galliano collection that breathed beauty and, while it may have been a little out-of-step with Paris’s current direction, reminded us of Galliano’s past collections and his genius.
The trademark moments were there: huge billowing skirts, large period style Stephen Jones hats, intricate drapes and folds (yes, Galliano did them first Haider fans), huge lapelled swing coats and dresses in organza and tulle, and, like Gaytten was cross referencing, lots of Yohji like volume going on in there – wide pants, wide skirts, layered kimonos, a Japonesque rhombus shape. Sculpted volumes, graphic prints and pure colour explored the modernity of dressing.  
Draped and fitted jackets were worn with voluminous trousers and statement over-sized shorts. Stephen Jones’ Mille-feuille and Bird’s Nest hat creations evoked an Edwardian elegance as they also define the direction of Galliano. Cut-away shapes, clean round-necklines and varying asymmetric hems in trench cottons, technical taffeta, crepe, cotton poplin punctuate this contemporary collection. It may not be Galliano’s old customer that Gaytten is appealing to, but a new breed of New Romantics and what’s wrong with that?
If the wearability and future forward moments from Paris Fashion Week are what we remember best of this S/S’13, there will still be some of us who long for big, bold, daring artistic vision ramped to the max and a whole new level of creativity – that’s what we’re missing with John Galliano’s demise. Isn’t it time he came back, please?


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