Giambattista Valli must surely be inheriting the mantle that Garavani Valentino shed on leaving his illustrious house to the care-taking of others. Only, Valli seems to take the elegance, the beauty, the sheer old world style of couture and manages to shake it up a little, translating old school mores into new world vision. It’s the type of new couture that makes the die-hard fashion fans ache for the want of it. Valli moves us in material ways.
For Spring ’13, Giambattista Valli showed a collection so assured, graceful, yet subterfuge sexy that he moved himself into the Oscars-Red Carpet-Must Have territory for those young, rich and thin enough to carry them off. Grace Kelly would have approved.
Valli started the show with ocelot printed coats, discreet mid length net dresses caught with thick gilt belts, short, synched mini dress versions (to please his younger clientele) and fur, ocelot print and net longer length day dresses that oozed style. But it was Valli’s play with ballet-esque nipped waists, strapless bustier dresses and billowing net ’50s type ‘New Look’ versions that catapulted the house into high gargantuan glamour, as did the crochet lace, short trapeze shapes and body skimming trousers worn under bustier ball gowns – heavenly – and all in a palette of black and white.
Then came the purest of almond pastel shades in lemon, white and pink with lots of frou, and indeed, frou. Organza and raised embroidery abounded as did ruffled faille and vast billows of satin. With layered dresses that showed expanses of leg as well as typically demure ‘coming-out’ Deb style dresses of yore, Valli showed the extent of his expertise and his understanding for his market as well as the age old secret, how-to-turn-on-women.
He’s more than good this young couturier. A master with lots more promise to come.
Catwalk images kindly supplied with permission from www.showstudio.com.