Nicole Farhi Menswear A/W’13 – To Have and Have Knit
Imagine the scene; La Chutzpah and I sat in a cafe around the corner from the Nicole Farhi presentation whilst juniors from some Sunday supplement talk over their latest skit – rigging out a male colleague in clashing styles and labels to crash the event down the road. Because that’s what us fashion people do, dress up like an explosion in Topman and turn up to shows we’re not invited to, isn’t it?
After some sotto voce swearing we made our way down to Conduit Street, whilst ‘Our Man on the Scene’ posed with an excitable pug for clueless photographers, mistaking him for the real deal. If anything, this was the most damning indictment of fashion week “street style” photography we could think of.
New creative director Joanna Sykes’ first menswear collection for Nicole Farhi and…well, there’s little development from Spring/Summer 2013. The colours are darker, the silhouette neater. Fabrication, sourced from Italian manufacturers, is noticeably finer. No surprise from the woman who dusted off Aquascutum’s rather fusty, Grace Brothers image. It’s all super-stylish, eminently wearable, and I couldn’t find a single item I wouldn’t mind hanging in my wardrobe (or, most usually, folded in a pile on the floor).
Way back when Nicole Farhi was still designing French Connection I remember falling in lust with the knitwear one season, saving up for several pieces. Autumn/Winter 2013’s sweaters were like meeting up with an old flame, the colours and textures beyond covetable. Mentally devising methods of getting one of these jumpers into my bag, I was saved from a life of crime by Katie, who reminded me we had other shows to get to.
Back outside and rumour has it our interloper let his lapdog defecate in the doorway. If it had been a bird this could be seen as an omen of good fortune. Luckily, as an initial statement of intent, Joanna Syke’s debut doesn’t need it.
Review written by Lee Clatworthy (@TeamChutzpah) for Katie Chutzpah blog.