Are these his best releases to date? Francis Kurkdjian rolls out Oud Mood

by Katie on February 26, 2013

Just when you think ‘he surely can’t top that?’. In strolls the man who can, M Kurkdjian, with another majestic offer – only this time it comes in three. Three times the power, three times the seduction, three times the exhilarating addiction. The potency of this trio of overblown sophisticates wows with their aristocratic finesse. I’m talking M Francis Kurkdjian’s latest trio of ouds – Oud Mood.

Kurkdjian impressed with his startlingly different oud release last year which leapt out from the crowd and now, come March 2013, he’s doing it all over again. 

Oud Mood is a trio based on Francis’s interactions with this precious and exquisite raw material. Imagining and developing each perfume as a series of feelings and sensations,  Kurkdjian brings each ts own air of charisma and personality, whilst they fit together like a Chinese puzzle; complex, beautiful, intelligent and ornate.

Using expensive oud from Laos, Kurkdjian, the dream-weaver that he is, has developed a tactile sense of worth and alluring willowiness that beguiles with Oud Mood. Playing on glamour, comfort and warmth, these babies are akin to the finest soft mink stole around bare shoulders. The call of comfort and luxe. As precious, intense and concentrated as the women (and men) who elect to wear them.

Like ‘Sophie’s Choice’ it’s impossible to decide but if I had to, I’d go for Oud Silk Mood every time. Like a moth to a flame, I’m drawn to this most delicate and esteemed warm rose oud, a scent that breathes with subtlety, polite richness and love. Bulgarian rose, papyrys and blue chamomile from Morocco lift one’s aspirations and, as expected, one’s mood. Oud Silk Mood is gloriously and divinely feminine with couture silk kisses aplenty. Like being stroked all over with soft rose petals.

Oud Velvet Mood is another classic. Warmer, heavier and drier than the latter, Oud Velvet Mood is a deeper taste, equally as charming but a tad more exotic and dangerous. A heavier after note of cinnamon follows the opening beauty while Brazilian copahu and saffron join in to release the oud to its full potential. Oud Velvet Mood is equally as engaging for men as for women. 

The heaviest and weightiest of the trio is Oud Cashmere Mood but don’t think that’s a bad thing. This is a big scent. Darker, huskier, powerful and the most true to the air of Middle Eastern exotic influences, Oud Cashmere Mood takes centre stage with its opening notes of benzoin  following up with a sweeter vanilla but with a steely aftertaste of waxy, virile labdanum, Kurkdjian’s vision for this is of a ‘second skin‘. This skin is dusky though, equally as steeped in the experiences of adhan as it is in internationalism. The most masculine of the trio, there still remains the groomed softness, like a latter day Omar Sharif wearing Saville Row.

Le creator sublime, Kurkdjian has reached new heights with these modern, wrought-with-care ouds and extended his range to the heavens. What next we wonder?

All three Oud Mood extraits will be available in spray bottles (70ml) and will retail for £275 each from Selfridges, Liberty and Harvey Nichols.

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