Conversely, going two steps forward and one backward seems to work for this cerebral brand that both turns off and on its legions of admirers in equal measure. What one season has some reeling in the aisles has others heading for the hills. The only people that Miuccia will upset this season is the ant-fur lobbyists as furs and fur sleeve trims were multo in evidence. And, I loved it. Equally for the sublime styling, the mild borrowing from the past but taken leftfield and re-worked, the pairing of textures like sequins and cashmere, the midi hobble skirt lengths, the drapes, folds, cut and swathe and purely decadent mink trims…this ladies and gentlemen was a collection for those who like clothes, not trends nor labels nor showy-showiness.
Prada’s Modern Film Noir Heroine Wows Milan A/W’13
Prada’s more than a bit of an anachronism for me. Veering in one direction and then another from season to season, sometimes it makes me wonder who is in charge of the reigns? The designer or the design team? No matter that Prada’s venture into trend territory and the Japanese influence of Spring/Summer ’13 sees the label leap forward for A/W’13 into a much more refined, secure and dare-I-say-it, ladylike and mature direction. Blending high class ’50s sophisticate with a hint of old Prada archive trawling (meets old Marni) and some incredibly directional movements, including architectured asymmetry which cleverly seemed to flow, this collection wowed. This was a collection from the heart but an intelligent heart at that. A film noir heroine for latter day saints who may be tempted to be sinners on the side.
Cinched in waists and A-line skirts with severe jackets with folds of mink trim, cleverly cut pockets on the hem became a feature as did the sleeve folds which must already be one of the most requested items from fashion editors for future features. But it was Prada’s mix of the unconventional, like the asymmetric, wool stripe skirt with luxury fur or the red leather dirndl skirt with deep v sweater and wool check coat cast over that made this collection seem like a beacon in amongst try-hards.
Ironically, Prada has shown much more directional and outre collections but it is this dedication to quirky luxury daywear such as shown in this collection that makes the brand devastating in its delivery.
I could and would wear every single last item. Sign me up Miuccia. I’m ready for my close-up.
Catwalk imagery kindly supplied by kind permission of www.style.com. Please click on the link for further shows.