Like diluted blood tinged with absinthe, Serge Lutens La Fille de Berlin startles with all the impact and charisma of Sally Bowles, the ill-fated, devastatingly divine ‘Cabaret’ heroine. This new release seems as complex and steeped in artsy Weimar Bohemia as Sally was, reeking of ‘don’t care’ and ‘I dare you’ as much as heavy-lidded come hithers and deep sensuality.
La Fille de Berlin longs to be worn screaming under bridges while trains rattle above and yelling out ‘Maybe Next Time’ whilst bemoaning the love lost but also, conversely, unlike Sally, our ‘Fille’ likes to take charge. Lutens describes her as an ‘an angry rose – very beautiful…assertive yet comforting’ and yet I see her more as an Emo rose loving wearer with attitude.
The play between bohemia and autocracy is played out in the complexity of the fragrance. The initial metallic sharpness verses the controlled weak rush and creeping folds of crimson rose with hidden thorns that scratch the skin softly, wreaking a new addiction. This is an instant hit. The power behind this madchen is her softly softly approach. La Fille de Berlin feeds you just enough hit on application to make you want more and more. Strictly A class. Then, there’s the soft amber like dry-down and very faint peppery tinge of dark leaves.
La Fille de Berlin is a mystery. A mystery why we haven’t seen a release like this before. Powerful in its dilution, impactful of colour and yet a skilled illusionist, La Fille de Berlin can, like Sally Bowles, make you believe she’s entirely something else. What she is, is original. So, “Wilkommen, Bienvenue, Welcome!” to a little lady who’ll entertain before your very nose. Prepare for the rush.
La Fille de Berlin eau de parfum (50ml) will be exclusively available at Harrods from 3rd February and available nationwide throughout the UK from 27th February 2013 priced at £69