On the surface Central Saint Martin’s graduate J. JS Lee’s Autumn/Winter 2013 collection seems extremely pure, née verging on austere, in its simplicity. Masculine silhouettes mingle with A-line shapes with a wearable easiness and nothing to frighten the horses, especially the muted palette of black, ivory, baby pink and pastel mint.
Technically this collection is a tour-de-force of artisanal weaving techniques and fluidity, the texture adding much needed warmth to the rather restrained aesthetic. There is some slight structure and a nod to Eighties power dressing, but this is fashion with a small ‘f’ where fabrication is the primary focus, rather than an overwhelming need to please. But please it does.
On paper a collection like this would normally dull me into writing another long, vituperative rant about minimalism, but after a season of over-long, unedited collections where designers have thrown everything except the mink-lined kitchen sink into the mix, J. JS Lee’s singularity of vision is rather consolatory. Kind of like a palate-cleansing sorbet at the end of an overly-rich meal. It is calming. Soothing. A happy place mercifully free of trend-guzzling fashion wannabes and click-happy street style photographers.
God bless J. JS Lee.
Article written by Lee Clatworthy (@TeamChutzpah) for Katie Chutzpah blog