Ahh! I said in another recent post that I wondered when designers would start pulling out lingerie as daywear or as a necessity to the periodesque looks that were shown all over Milan and Paris. Someone had to take up the challenge. Step forward Mr Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton who executed it to perfection
This collection wasn’t ever going to rock convention. It is Louis Vuitton and does have to sell an element of classicism as well as killer collectable accessories. But, as a beautiful, indulgent, sexy ode to women, gloriously throwing mantles and long cloaks over sensuous lingerie come silk, lace-trimmed daywear, this was it.
Marc tends to do sex well. We’ve had steam trains and steaminess and fetishistic Claridges hotel routines worked into his shows. This A/W’13 it seems that Marc has taken his cue from Madonna’s ‘Justify My Love’ video with a bit of jazz age thrown in; bobbed wigs, feathers, silk lingerie and sequin trimmed, over-sized wool coats cast over shoulders for that ‘do I really have to get out of bed?’ look. Yes, one must. And what better way to step out than in this collection.
Lace edged negligees come day dresses, feather trims, pyjama pants worn with tight sweaters, skirt suits edged in fine embroidery, kimono-style, sweeping, long dressing gowns come wrap coats, fur lined and/or trimmed coats (with the current season mink-edged sleeve apparent) and see-through, sequin dresses all made for a risque, come-hither show. Break down the styling, though, and what you have is a sea of wantable pieces that will see Louis Vuitton take plenty dollah over the coming season.
This was easy, feminine, relaxed dressing akin to ’90s ‘Voyage’ style bohemianism that marries louche with lovely. It’s also a look that’s easy to replicate. Start searching Ebay for ’30s satin slips and duster coats now. You’ll thank me for it.