Osman A/W’13 – Broken Promises

by Katie on March 21, 2013

And so we reach the end of fashion month, and what have we learnt? That, despite the surfeit of beautiful, covetable collections, there is very little directional fashion out there. There are, however, some strong trends that have dug their heels in and refuse to shift.

That overarching sense of aspiration seeped throughout London, New York, and Paris. Clothes that will take you from car to restaurant to car to hotel, but are far from seasonally appropriate. Shoulders are bared. Skirts are gossamer thin. No wonder fur was seen everywhere except on sunglasses – and that must only be a matter of time.
Another strong trend took the asymmetry from previous seasons and subtly applied it to hems and collars. Miuccia Prada was the queen of this look, her models the definition of post-knee trembler dishevelment.

Lightning rarely ever strikes twice in fashion, and whilst Osman Yousefzada followed a similar path with his Autumn/Winter 2013 collection, all lop-sided skirts and sleeves, the execution lacked Prada’s precision.
Stating that he wants women to be comfortable in his clothes, Osman has relaxed the at-times rigid, minimal aesthetic he originally became known for, meaning that these asymmetric details, and some Ghesquiere ruffles, come off as rather half-hearted.
Osman seems to be suffering from some existential crisis. Designing a capsule collection for Nice Ladies Who Lunch at John Lewis with one hand, whilst dressing Beyoncé for the Grammys with the other (something the designer seems uncomfortable with), this collection feels like it’s unsure of who its customer is. Is it the West London wife of a company CEO or a Park Lane princess on the uptown party circuit?
Yes, the textiles are gorgeously iridescent, and there’s enough fur here to satiate the most pelt-hungry Russians, it’s just when Osman eases everything up the end result is, dare I say, a touch mumsy. The most successful pieces are those with Osman’s signature structure, such as the rabbit capelet tops, or a brocade shift with peekaboo shoulders. The remainder touches on Maria Grachvogel territory, and London already has one of those.
From a commercial perspective this distillation of wearable trends will probably delight buyers and customers alike but, from a fashion point-of-view, this is a disappointment from a designer who initially showed much more promise.

Article written by Lee Clatworthy (@TeamChutzpah) for Katie Chutzpah blog. Catwalk images by kind courtesy of www.style.com

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