Raf Simon’s first Cruise Show for Dior was always going to make waves and for good reason. The fact that it was held in Monaco, coinciding with the Cannes Film Festival a mere couple of major ports away, taking advantage of the many Dior fans and stars in attendance and ensuring red carpet highlights in the following days. Cue fashion coup.
Celebrities and Royalty alike were sporting Mr Simons’ collection within hours including Marion Cotillard, Princess Charlene of Monaco, Liv Tyler and Jessica Biel. But it was the show itself that grabbed the attention – from the huge tent built on the port to the wondrous display of vintage Dior gowns inside as well as the glittering list of attendees atop Raf’s take on cruisewear with rifts of couture.
Simons introduced the same force of will and empathy for Dior’s history as he showed at the A/W’13 show with all the twists and turns of his own sensitive dynamism.
The commercial Bar Jacket with Dior nipped-in waist came with matching skinny pants in brilliant cobalt blue or scarlet but also opened the show teamed with a black silk lace & foil dress and knitted metallic cotton underwear. Raf, as we know, is a modernist in extremis. His only restraint is his conscience for the brand. Mr Simons adroitely managed to build layer upon layer. Playing to the traditional Dior customer but also, by layering or hinting at more than a soupcon of sexiness, managed to convey his new-found direction for the House.
A pink jacquard patterned silk dress was simplicity in itself and perfect cruisewear while the raspberry astrakhan coat was multo modern Dior in glorious technicolour. And then we were gifted the off white pastel and black cotton silk coat dress – simplicity, functionality and vision.
Zips as a focal point featured heavily in the nude knitted dress with peekaboo orange bra and pink and oyster silk dresses flashing large dancer’s knickers. The Cobalt blue silk bustier dress zipped to reveal narrow black pants as did the pale pink knitted version, worn atop black wool shorts and a knitted bra.
It was Raf’s nod to the Far East that drew the attention as non-traditional addictive cruisewear. The printed pastel metallic guipere crop top paired with wide charcoal wool pants with a flash of art print. Or, the navy wool bustier pantsuit with the embroidered and printed pastel, metallic guipere top that relayed Parisienne elan with Far Eastern flair.
Beauty and simplicity came in coats of many colours like the navy and coral lace coat – a joy in itself, or the navy & metallic pink bonded version and pale blue cotton embroidered and printed guipere versions. Ladylike above all.
Dresses were daring with deep plunges – this was how to do sophisticated sexy. The pale yellow lace and pink silk dress was styled with a cobalt blue wrap scarf – the devil was in the detail and the wrap. A pale pink lace and silk dress was entirely see-through and flashed knitted underwear.
It wouldn’t be Cruise without swimwear. Or in this case, the body. Cobalt and black silk bodies were shown sleeveless and with sleeves.
Raf’s Dior Cruise Line 2014 ensured red carpet devotion as much as red Cap d’Antibes.