Marni’s Resort 2014 Collection Wows

by Katie on June 21, 2013

Being doused in menswear at London’s Menswear Collections for the last week (hey, who’s complaining?), it’s a revelation to see some retrained womenswear gorgeousness once again courtesy of Marni.
A label that knows its own mind, Marni has more than a modicum of gravitas. It is, quite simply, imbued with sophisticated restraint and intelligence down to its roots. Track pants with a full sharply lapelled Mac? You got it. Pantsuits in rich jewel tones that yell easy elegance? Yes, that too.

The latest Marni Resort collection for 2014 is precisely constructed with an edge. The idea of strictness and severity is smoothed by intense colours and a continuous play of textures and lengths. Exact lines both offset and highlight the tactile preciousness of the fabrics used.

The silhouette is womanly, to the knee, right below or short; curves and straight lines alternate and interact. The accent on the waist – slightly high, always cinched – creates a sense of feminine control. Blouses with 3/4 length sleeves worn over tailored shorts or mannish trousers, and longer tunics worn with slim bermudas or pencil skirts are tied at the waist, bringing focus on the hips. 
White shirts worn as a base layer under printed dresses, tops and coats have an air of graceful modesty. Brocade coats exude couture elegance, loose trench-coats and zip-up anoraks worn with side banded slouchy trousers have a sporty feel. Tassels add movement. The feminine and easy gesture of tying a ribbon around the waist reconfigures a series of square boxy pieces made of wool crepe backed in ivory cotton. 

The dense colour palette is a mix of gem notes of orange, purple, green, blue. Black and white provide a firm, graphic frame. Bold prints nod at the 70s adding a disturbing element: abstract flowers, micro dots, pinstripes.
Fabrics have a firm hand that enhances the exact cuts: cotton cady, double duchess, canvas, crepe marocaine, wool crepe and ottoman.
Marni accessories keep to the story: sandals with a wedge and a stack heel in two matching deep colors, flat or medium-heel sandals with contrast piping, flat sandals with gold bows. Geometric, compact shapes on the bags – shoulder styles in different sizes – bring attention to materials and finishes: contrast borders, laminated effects, geometrical motifs obtained through perforation of layers. The bijou has pure and bold lines: geometric horn pendants attached to metallic structures; leather and horn bracelets with cabochon closures. Oversized acetate sunglasses add a layer of mystery.

If this is Marni’s latest Resort, we’re in for a bumper ride for S/S’14.

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