As anyone attending London Collections Men knows, it’s a tough job circumnavigating the gamut of back-to-back brilliant shows that range from trend to traditional, so fitting in the designers showing only at exhibition is a squeeze, though a must see – there’s always something new to wow.
As a bona fide fan of Mr Nicholas Kirkwood’s vertiginous heels, seeing his S/S’14 range for men was on the list of ‘not to be missed’. Kirkwood manages to combine both the rational with the ultra creative and has taken footwear design to a new level of longing and his Menswear range for Spring/Summer ’14 sees two clear strands at work – the fantasy and the familiar, though the latter is a souped-up, luxe version of conventional.
Known for his ability to challenge traditional conventions, Kirkwood’s craftmanship manages to bend to a new era in men’s footwear design.
For S/S’14, we see the introduction of a thick lightweight sole applied to brogues, boots and loafers that explores functionality and proportion all in a classic take with Kirkwood ingenuity. Inspired by 1970s sneakers, the sole defines the collection appearing in dress and casual styles including the new loafer.
Colour blocking and the use of contrast custom-made leathers and fabrics like raffia and leather and high-tech sports mesh with metallics in subtle colours like teal and wine showcased Kirkwood’s attention to form and line.
Kirkwood manages to capture the aura of his store design with a set designed by Mehrmoosh Khadivi that brilliantly highlighted the shoe designs in mood lighting, set in an all black area, that spotlighted the intricacy and contrasts of Kirkwood’s work.
Nicholas Kirkwood S/S’14 Men’s will be available from Nicholas Kirkwood Boutiques in London, New York and Las Vegas as well as select retailers worldwide from January 2014.