The MAN show organised by Topman and Fashion East brought forth the collections of three newcomers in menswear: Craig Green, Alan Taylor and Bobby Abley. While Green and Abley took the fresh-out-of-college approach demonstrating their skilled ability to conceptualise avant-garish inspired pop-fashion, Taylor’s work stood out of the cohort as a cohesive collection focused on pushing boundaries of modern classicism.
The Irish designer reworked traditional fabrics in collaboration with Magee of Donegal, producing a light-brown crosshatched tweed and grey linen painted with white accenting. Inspired by the expressionistic art of Francis Bacon (1909-1992), these fabrics mimicked the artist’s style of brushwork – achieving a visual quality of raw etched dimension and interwoven texturing.
Closer inspection of pieces reveals that Taylor spent much time studying Bacon’s style. Lightweight knitwear blended muted tones in a paint-like fashion, melding a mélange of colour to generate opaque pattern. The alluringly tranquil mood of the show reached its pinnacle when black organza jackets flowed down the runway; the sheer fabric allowed for the eye to dissect the immaculate skeleton of internal tailoring.
Observations of untraditional construction were pushed further with presentation of tweed shorts and upside down jackets attached to shirts and trousers. Such pieces created a dialogue for considering alternative dimensions of clothing. In this eerie milieu, the haunting collection offered intrigue in playing with notions of weighted texture, sheer translucency and crafty construction. The creative talent evident in Taylor’s work this season stands as mere testament to his artful legerdemain.
Review written by Cody James (@roguing_vogue) for Katie Chutzpah blog