Something’s happened to Jean-Pierre Braganza this season – he’s lightened up considerably. And is all the better for it. Inspired by the ‘controlled nonchalance’ with which his daughter wears her school uniform, Braganza tried to relay the contradictions in eschewing a contrived, carefully put together look versus a bright-and-breezy-free-and-easy one. For the most part, it worked.
Adding in bands of pale pink (a very ‘it’ colour for S/S’14 it appears) instead of his trademark black and red all over, made this collection stand out as distinctly more feminine, approachable and saleable – a factor that all designers have to consider.
Cute skater skirts came in black and pink stripes or in pure white teamed with a short crop jacket. Traditional yet flirty. Asymmetric hemline dresses and skirts appeared, in wild print, pastel pink and white or, in the more traditional Braganza red/black and white. Loose satin shorts were worn with a monochrome, asymmetric top (decidedly more Braganza) while a ‘pretty tomboy’ look saw broderaie anglaise asymmetric tops worn with low slung, crop skater pants. Much more London, hip and honed but this contradiction between masculine and feminine should see Braganza step up in terms of international appeal.
It wouldn’t be Braganza without his splashes of red which came in two of the prints, an abstract splatter print and vine-like organic swirls woven into grey Jacquard. Stand out were the black/white satin, asymmetric hemline tuxedo dress, the sexy, trailing , floor-length black slip and the kimono sleeve top paired with matching baggy shorts.
Braganza’s leap into maturity hasn’t lost any of his bite, just some of the angst. Bravo.