New York certainly knows to keep the best to (almost) last. Proenza Schouler showed a deftness of touch and a new pseudo-militaristic vision that played with faintly ‘70s styling that just ached to be worn and will, no doubt, already have Zara designers compiling tear sheets to be ‘reworked’ (but not much) as we speak.
Suede lapels pulled back on square set jackets with chunky gilt lock detailing, culottes (are back back back!), skirts and trousers all falling mid-length and worn with wedge shoes and boots. Ankle-length sun-ray pleat skirts in the shiniest aluminium that looked hyper right, matched with cross-over vests or felt & techno fabric sweatshirts – this all looked new. The styling, the verve, the approach and the lines – Proenza Schouler showed that they were ready to take New York that leap further.
It wasn’t all new – some parts of the show were distinctly old skool Ralph Lauren but just zshushed up to hyper relevance. Take the militaristic touch, long waistcoats with the toggle fastenings, the butter soft, suede, ankle length dresses and vests with apron front ties, culottes (that deconstructed from the styling will wow many) and that simply fantastic, cream coat with black and silver detailing that looked ready to walk right up 5th Avenue. There is plenty in this collection for traditionalists but it’s the ultra modern and visionary elements that make this extra special.
Fun came from touches like the long, shaggy sheepskin coat and the glitter jersey, pleat, black dress. This was no throwback to the ‘70s but took the feel straight to 2014, do not pass go. Even more visionary were the trompe l’oeil ‘toile’ effect jackets that appeared purposefully unfinished as did the edge to edge swagger coat that seemed to bear the trail of chalk dust lined as an artfully distressed look. Proenza Schouler’s defining moment of many as were the new boxy peplum skirts, smooth white or black/white graphic tree printed. The design duo showed just how far they could think outside the box.
A gorgeous, structured, slit to the navel, wrap skirt dress in yellow with white piping was ‘70s Jane Fonda meets Gwyneth Paltrow. This was a fine show. It will please more than the film stars and fashion editors clamouring to wear it.
Catwalk images used by kind permission of www.style.com