I had a sneak peek or rather a sneak sniff of the new Jean Patou Joy Forever (released November 2013) at a recent Meet The Perfumers event at Harrods where a small group of us met with Jean Patou’s charming new in-house perfumer, Thomas Fontaine.
While discussing the rich heritage of Patou perfumes past and re-issues about to come about* we were invited to trial Joy Forever – an attempt by the House to update the classic, Joy, but also make this relevant to a newer, hipper but still in-love-with-the-throes-of-classics market. (*Thanks be to God that my favourite, classic, Eau de Patou is amongst them as well as the stunning Chaldee and Patou pour Homme).
Now, we all know the golden rule, ‘don’t fix it if it ain’t broke’ but Patou (now owned by Designer Perfumes Ltd, who also handle another of my all time classic favourites, Jean-Louis Sherrer) seems to have a sense of its heritage and the aesthetics required for survival. The two prong attack and appeal to a classic audience as well as an attempt to garner new fans with new releases or editions. Indeed, why tamper with a classic that is the global brand leader of the House? In fact, they haven’t. All that’s been done is that Fontaine has astutely handled the brief from the new owners to widen the appeal whilst retaining Jean Patou’s un-assailed allure. Cue Joy Forever, a new classic in the making that’s a big breath of floral fresh air to lift spirits like it’s older, more worldy-wise and grander sister, Joy, first created in 1929 in similar economically uncertain times.
If Joy was sent to chase the Depression’s blues away, one would hope that Joy Forever could bring joy for more than just a fleeting moment in digital, blink (or rather click) and-you-miss-it times. We have become so accustomed to the new-new, new releases constantly, updates, flankers and a vast onslaught of niche and masstige perfume releases that it’s rare that a heritage house releases a new baby without a huge fanfare of celebrity advertising. In fact, it says a great deal that it can and will, letting the name and its past speak for itself. More or less.
While Joy’s stand-out was its huge cost in hard times due to its vast quantities of Damascene Rose and Jasmine de Grasse, the key to its opulence and expense, Joy Forever contains the key original ingredients of Joy, Rose de Mai and Jasmine – the Patounade or secret blend of JEAN PATOU fragrances but with a Modern Miss twist. There’s a rush of uplifting rose, powdery dryness from Orris and a sharp green sharpness & wetness (Marigold) alongside the rounded robustness of jasmine and soft, beautiful notes of orange flower and peach. The mix pulls and pushes at each other with twists and turns but this bouquet is a delight. Like breathing in new Spring life.
Thomas Fontaine says, “When creating the fragrance for JOY FOREVER, I took my inspiration from the Jean Patou woman….a woman who effortlessly combines a relaxed casual style with a natural and refined elegance. This duality was my starting point in building a floral bouquet where orris and orange flower are the vibrant heart of this mythical accord.”
At Joy Forever’s base lies Cedarwood, Sandalwood, White Musks and Amber – this is the modern twist that softens and brings a contemporary edge mixed with the classic fusion of colliding florals. Indeed, the timeless spirit reaches its peak with Bergamot, Mandarin and Galbanum as the past combines with the present to define the future.
Joy Forever is housed in the same style, timeless, elegant bottle as Joy, this time with a rose gold cap which reflects the antique rose gold glow of the luxurious and classic box.
Joy Forever is available exclusively at Harrods from November 2013. 50ml EDP £95.00