Zeynep Tosun reassessed the sleek and carefree spirit of the 1920s in her S/S’14 collection but in an assuredly modernist manner. Drop-waists, elongated V-necks and wide-legged trousers cut from luxuriant silk and chiffon recalled the essential age when fashion entered modernity: the death of hourglass corseting and birth of flat masculinised femininity.
Light pink, champagne, dark violet and ivory painted the runway. Day robes with bustling and tassels were worn over matching bra tops and deep-pocket trousers.
Thin layers were achieved through overdressing mesh and chiffon over panelling of silk. Oriental tiled-prints in metallic thread added interest to the subdued tones, while audacious V cuts were applied to the front and back of columnar shifts and gowns.
Sporty elegance was infused with the inclusion of silk pleated shorts, oversized crop tops and a light pink satin hoodie — a modern take on the sportive trend that usurped the traditional tea gowns of the ‘20s.
The flat and tubular shapes of the collection are quite a statement to sects of today’s advertising industry, which revel in stirring debate over the social embracement of real ‘curves’. Lest we forget the break with curvature in the 1920s did not escape prejudice in its rally for freedom. The generation of post-war womanhood aimed at gaining acceptance of a new body free to movement, both, in physical and theoretical terms.
One need reference the creations of Patou, Chanel and Schiaparelli to ponder such notions of wayward thinking for women. Clothing one could easily ‘move’ in: physically, socially and economically. Tosun’s collection updates this mentality, reminding us that life is a mere charade.
Review written by Cody James (@roguing_vogue) for katiechutzpah.com