Agi & Sam inspired by Masai Culture for A/W’14

by Katie on January 22, 2014

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The winners of last year’s ‘Emerging Talent Award’ delivered this season with a collection inspired by Masai culture and, more specifically, Agi’s recent east African travels exploring his patrilineal warrior heritage. As the label’s first trek into a clothed world devoid of flamboyant colour, the grey-scaled fabric designs were inspired by the vibrant tradition of Masai textiles and beadwork.

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Layering continued to be the way forward for the A-S team, who recycled their trusty lapel-less jacket designs and smock sweatering for transitional garments. Appropriate under pinnings were found in thin square tunics, long-sleeved mock necks and white quilted vesture.

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Taking prominence in the collection were stripes of varying intensity and thickness. Accompanied by the beats of live African drumming, the popping linear designs provided a much needed pulse for the monochromatic theme. Full-on striped outerwear was offset by cropped trousers detailed with florescent panels, while matching smock and trouser sets were slashed with rustic lines in grey, black and white.

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The only colour to splash the horizon of the runway came in the form of magnified faux-oil logos applied to smocks and tanks. The dichotomy between oil-hungry globalism and emblems of traditional nomadic culture (weaving and beading) was a statement of reverence for the Masai’s resilience in maintaining organic culture and dress custom in the face of ‘urbane’ progress.

Review written by Cody James (@rogueing_vogue) for Katie Chutzpah blog.

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