The winners of last year’s ‘Emerging Talent Award’ delivered this season with a collection inspired by Masai culture and, more specifically, Agi’s recent east African travels exploring his patrilineal warrior heritage. As the label’s first trek into a clothed world devoid of flamboyant colour, the grey-scaled fabric designs were inspired by the vibrant tradition of Masai textiles and beadwork.
Layering continued to be the way forward for the A-S team, who recycled their trusty lapel-less jacket designs and smock sweatering for transitional garments. Appropriate under pinnings were found in thin square tunics, long-sleeved mock necks and white quilted vesture.
Taking prominence in the collection were stripes of varying intensity and thickness. Accompanied by the beats of live African drumming, the popping linear designs provided a much needed pulse for the monochromatic theme. Full-on striped outerwear was offset by cropped trousers detailed with florescent panels, while matching smock and trouser sets were slashed with rustic lines in grey, black and white.
The only colour to splash the horizon of the runway came in the form of magnified faux-oil logos applied to smocks and tanks. The dichotomy between oil-hungry globalism and emblems of traditional nomadic culture (weaving and beading) was a statement of reverence for the Masai’s resilience in maintaining organic culture and dress custom in the face of ‘urbane’ progress.
Review written by Cody James (@rogueing_vogue) for Katie Chutzpah blog.