Patrick Grant and the E.Tautz team made a triumphal return to the heritage of British tailoring for AW’14. The collection boasted a travelling bazaar of fabrics that were embellished, printed, woven and hand-stitched to perfection.
Last season represented a new direction for the label, placing emphasis on the cohesion of light fabrics and modern square cuts — an ultra trendy investment for investors and buyers in the booming Asian market. Undoubtedly, effort to appeal to this consumer base is a business-savvy model for many luxury labels. If Lagerfeld can pay homage to the power of global economics in his AW haute couture collection, so can ‘Patrice’.
Tailored trousers (in silk and flannel) were presented with smock doeskin panelled sweaters. Jacquard waistcoats were made edgy with matching biker jackets, oversized trousers and scarves fringed at knee-length – encompassing a sort of aristocratic vagabond mood.
Options for outerwear were maximised with oversized Chesterfileds, duffels, parkas, bikers and bombers. Some were jazzed with lattice patterning (printed and embroidered) and hand stitching to remind us of the granny-licious seduction of Grant’s Sewing Bee days. Flannel suiting also received further treatment, being adorned with a flurry of tassels, patches and autumnal leaves.
Inspiration for the collection (titled ‘A Rake’s Progress’) was derived from the moralistic tales of rake men, historically identified as flippant squanders of family fortunes on the frivolities of life (gambling, booze, clothing, etc.) This was apparent in the romanticised link between traditionally high and low brow clothing: the rebellious infusion of edgy staples among the tradition of Tautz tailoring.
Meandering between old and new world curiosities AW’14 is testimony to the refined wayward-ology of prodigal sons everywhere, personifying the zany ethos of Grant himself: gallivanting antiquarian chic.
Catwalk review written by Cody James (@roguing_vogue) for Katie Chutzpah blog.