Xander Zhou’s AW’14 collection ‘Your Highness’ took inspiration from the tradition of Western regalia and debuted tailored classics altered with anomalous shapes and a parade of heraldic insignias, patches and stripes thrown in with a healthy doze of new wave futurism.
Models marched out from a rock formation to a galactic mix of music in tailored jackets and coats paired with baggy pyjama trousers – conjuring images of an Oxbridge morning after brunch outing. Presentable in outward façade, but too hung-over to slap on trousers with a waistband.
Tailoring appeared as no alien concept to Zhou, who in past seasons has showcased traditional jackets and trousers modernised with strategically conceived straps and panelling. AW’14 follows similar convention with wide-lapelled coats that feature geometric appendages and enclosures. Such design technique is evidence of Zhou’s purist interest in the architecture of the clothing, and likely influenced by his early studies of industrial design.
The scarf stood as a staple to the collection, manifesting in exaggerated lengths of Eton’esque satin neck-bows, cross-latched buttoned and sling types. Selections of oversized roll-neck sweaters (with underarm sashes) and matching trousers added a high-end sportif element to the collegiate aesthetic, appearing as thick wool Star Trek’y uniforms ideal for holiday ski enthusiasts, or the reclusive chalet-dwelling vin chaud drinkers.
Colours remained dark (grey, black, navy) with injections of cool tones (light blue, lavender) and vibrant crimson. Mink-studded coats sparked smiles from the crowd, emblematic of the overall feel of the collection: playfully reserved. Zhou’s impeccable detail to balanced proportion, understated visual elegance and wearable utility stands as an ultra modern alternative to the haughty attitude of Saville Row.
Reviewed by Cody James (@roguing_vogue) for Katie Chutzpah blog.
Runway catwalk images by http://www.christopherdadey.com/