Inspired by Art History, Braganza’s Haughty Elegance for AW’14

by Katie on February 19, 2014

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Jean Pierre Braganza brushed up on his Art History this season with a collection influenced by his antiquarian interest in the life and works of Italian Baroque painter Artemisia Gentileschi (1593-1656). Inspired by Artemisia’s troubles as a female artist in a male-dominated profession, Braganza melded his rock-chic attitude with a classical silhouette to embody a haughty feel of tough elegance.

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Emphasis was placed on presenting a range of cutting techniques and shapes. A hard-lined biker trench with football shoulders was paired with an A-line symmetric skirt, while bell and kimono sleeves were employed in thermal sweaters layered over mock sweaters, cropped trousers and floor-length skirts. A classic wide-legged trouser gained militant momentum under a silk dress bonded with zipped leather, and styled with a refined pair of full-length leather gloves.

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Hard lines were balanced through the layered mix of light fabrics. Thin black leather and selections of pattern-woven silk and rayon in black, white, navy and burgundy formed the basic scheme. ‘Chiaroscuro’ silk printed with images of Artemisia’s work mimicked traditions of painting technique – contrasting the Baroque period interest in achieving realistic volume through the ability to depict extremes between light and darkness.

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Such artistic feat was achieved by Braganza, especially in his options for evening suiting: a cropped royal blue jacket with cascading draped trouser, and a lavender and black silk tailed coat with flowing cropped trouser. Light fabrics, dark tones and voluminous draping formed a perfect palette for immortalizing the often underwritten edge and sophistication associated with the chronicled history of ‘uppity’ femininity.

Review written by Cody James (@roguing_vogue) for Katie Chutzpah blog.

Catwalk imagery by Debbie Bragg

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