Mary Katrantzou took and altogether different path for AW’14 and, by doing so, confirmed herself (as if we didn’t know already) as one of the true visionaries of London Fashion Week.
Dropping her trademark digital print (what??), Katrantzou opted for a look that was modernist Grecian inspired – these were High Priestesses of cool in trailing, pleated from hips or in drapes, Heraldic embroidered frontispiece dresses with symbolism high on the agenda.
To match the cover up of the embroidery, jacquards and brocade (a definite trend at LFW), there were Katrantzou’s more delicate heavy lace slips, scalloped hemmed or pleated, or, more directionally (in typical Katrantzou fashion) long and bias-cut, in Klimt Art Nouveau style and paired with a matching sweatshirt top.
Katrantzou’s sublime taste level and intelligence meant that her show, heavy in symbolism, tinged with mysticism and mixed in silhouette line – from gym slips to bias cut to floor-sweeping pleats veered her in a new and singularly executed direction. Katrantzou is no flash in the pan designer but one with a long-term vision, appealing to the cerebral rather than the celebrity. Thank Goodness for that. Hail Mary.