Having just seen the dull-as-ditchwater show previously (the fashion adept will work out who this was), it was joy, sweet joy, to be transported to the sort of low key, modernist come feminine without flounce aesthetic of Marios Schwab.
Schwab is one of those designers you would really love to wear if you weren’t the clumsy, OTT, spangly oaf that you are. His shows seem to breed high-brow, niche elegance and this one was exemplary in its execution. While the enigmatic ‘70s ‘Persuaders’ theme tune played out on a runway lit with candles, Schwab showed that your didn’t have to scream ‘look at me’ with bangs and whistles to garner attention this Autumn/Winter ‘14.
Mixing his trademark use of construction – bustiers, body-con lycra jersey and supple leather, Schwab seems to take all that you traditionally associate with sexy and transform it into real, gorgeous, laid back sensuality. Deep V dresses of the modernist persuasion had delicate lace bras peeking through, snuggly polos worn with short mini leather skirts, sweeping, trailing, feather edged scarves paired with loosely body-con dresses and whimsical lace & chiffon, wispy dresses with corsetry worn over or under to juxtapose the message. Flesh peeped through one-shoulder, stretch jersey, mini dresses, yet this was no bubbling over sexpot. This brimmed with sophisticated under statement.
Schwab got it oh so right with one of the most covetable looks of London Fashion Week – the half cape with polo neck strewn casually over a vest and supple leather pants. Sign me up Schwabby.